Do-it-yourself greenhouse heating: heating options. Do-it-yourself greenhouse heating system: the best ways to heat greenhouses in winter Pipes for heating a greenhouse

The very word greenhouse hints directly and unambiguously: it should be warm there. But gloomy autumn or spring weather, short daylight hours, rain and snowmelt, piercing winds, damp and cold land - all this prevents it from justifying its name. That is why it is so important to take care of additional heat generation.

Peculiarities

Heating a greenhouse is fundamentally different from generating heat for a private house, bath or garage. There are many more options, and therefore it is extremely important to understand all their features. Most systems for heating greenhouses in winter can be done by hand. But it is important to remember that it will not work to control heating as carefully as at home - you cannot “live” in a greenhouse. That is why it is so important to create not just a powerful system, but one that eliminates temperature jerks.

When choosing the best option, pay attention to:

• energy efficiency;
• fire safety;
• formation of an optimal microclimate for plants;
• ease of installation and operation;
• system reliability.

Pros and cons of methods

There are many options for heating greenhouses. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Electrical

The rising cost of all fuels is a trend that will continue for years and even decades to come. Therefore, among the electric methods of heating greenhouses, it is the film options that have a clear priority. The thinnest (a layer from 0.04 cm) film is a selection of current-transmitting strips, which are stacked according to a special pattern.

Its advantages are:

• the possibility of fixing on any solid foundation;
• ease of connection to the mains;
• application safety;
• excellent efficiency.

As for weaknesses, the minimum film thickness is the primary disadvantage. A small footprint translates into a high risk of damage. Errors in the use of infrared coatings may lead to the need to call the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

A more mechanically resistant option is a heating cable. It is able to work from 20 years in a row, the system is turned on both in a large area and in isolated areas.

Cable loops in the "warm floor" format are the best choice compared to water systems. To switch equipment from general heating to local, you only need to perform 1 action with the simplest control apparatus. The classic resistive cable is simple and cheap, the type of insulating sheath and external mechanical protection determines the period of operation.

A cable with one core will have to be laid so that both ends are near the power source. There is only one alternative - an additional cable to connect the far end.

Resistive type cables can adjust the generated amount of heat to the heating of the earth. But even on two adjacent beds, the actual temperature of the earth can vary quite a lot. Therefore, one has to either adjust everything “one size fits all”, or create complex expensive systems. Self-regulating cables are considered more modern, further saving current. Separate segments adapt heat generation to a specific task; if a certain fragment is already warmed up, the cable will not work there.

However, there is another option - using heating panels.

The panel method of heating greenhouses allows the installation of basic systems both near the ceiling and in the walls. The electric version of the panels performs well if the greenhouse area is limited to 25 m2. Over a larger area, they are not economical enough. You will need to stretch a serious cable route and spend a lot of energy. In addition, in many dacha associations and suburban settlements, the amount of current consumed per household is limited.

Speaking of heating with electricity, one cannot ignore such an option as a carbon cord. Compared to other cables, it has thermal inertia (it is 0), eliminates thermal shocks and helps to smoothly adjust conditions to emerging needs. Carbon cable is compatible with all known types of thermostats. Even when contour length adjustment is required, it is very easy and simple to do so.

The heat gun also has its advantages.

All electrical systems allow you to do without such an element as a chimney, but the “gun” is simpler than the rest in terms of device. The need for additional devices is completely eliminated. Start-up is carried out immediately after purchase

solar

Solar heating is considered the most natural solution, and modern methods allow you to use it in the winter greenhouse, and in the dark period of the day. It is imperative to create a greenhouse made of polycarbonate or glass. But you will have to form a structure in the form of an arch and maintain an orientation from east to west. To compensate for the short daylight hours, the greenhouse is equipped with a solar collector. It is formed in the form of insulated trenches, over which coarse sand is covered, an additional layer of soil is created.

If we compare such a scheme with air heating, it becomes clear that even the addition of improvised batteries does not increase efficiency enough. The intake of heated air provides both stronger and faster heating. The only problem is that a lot of fuel will be used up during the harsh winter.

biofuel

Since ancient times, farmers have used manure and a number of other organic substances to heat the land. During the decomposition of organic matter, a significant amount of heat is released. In many cases, preference is given to horse manure, which reaches 70 degrees in a week and maintains this figure for months to come. If there is no such significant need, a combination of it with straw is used. You can also mix manure with tree bark, sawdust and kitchen waste.

The disadvantages of biofuels are:

• subjective discomfort;
• risk of hygiene violations;
• unsuitable for heating for more than 4 months in a row.

Gas

In many country houses and country houses trying to install gas stoves. And this suggests another way to correct the shortcomings of the greenhouse. The relative economy and simplicity of the system, the possibility of creating it from factory components - these are the main positive aspects. However, along with an accurate calculation, it will be necessary to prepare drawings and a package of permits. Without the consent of the registrants government agencies it is impossible to implement the project, and each alteration of it entails new costs.

Natural gas is flammable, explosive and toxic. When using it, the greenhouse becomes an unnecessarily humid place, and the concentration of carbon dioxide rises excessively. In addition, the saturation of the air with oxygen is reduced. Installation of ventilation further complicates the matter and requires additional calculation, and in winter the supply of fresh air devalues ​​the generated energy.

To reduce the cost of using gas a little, a monorail type of water heating is practiced (with the connection of a pipeline coiled into a ring to the pump).

Benefits of water

Heating a greenhouse with water heating is good because this option allows you to transfer heat to both the ground and the air.

Device

Unlike solar heat generation, it is possible to heat a large room according to a year-round scheme. Most importantly, the appearance of overdried air is completely excluded. But ventilation is critically important, since the stillness of the air can lead to overheating of the plants.

If you use the classic air circuit, it is technically simpler, but it consumes more energy and achieves an identical result at a noticeably higher cost.

Boiler selection

Worth paying attention right choice boiler, so that it satisfactorily performs its tasks. In greenhouses, the installation of the same heating means as in houses and other buildings is practiced.

Greenhouse boilers can work on:

• waste from the timber industry;
• quality firewood;
• stone and brown coal;
• peat;
• household combustible litter;
• natural and liquefied gas;
• diesel fuel.

In many ways, the selection of a suitable system is determined by personal taste and spectrum. available sources energy. If the area has main gas pipelines, it is best to connect to them. Even bureaucratic bastions do not detract from the efficiency of the "blue fuel".

Boilers running on electricity or solid fuels can also be used. It is also necessary to carefully select the total capacity of the configuration so as not to freeze plantings and pay only for the heat that is really needed.

System installation

In addition to the boiler itself, pipelines and associated radiators will also have to be installed. The role of expanding tanks, chimneys and pumps that support circulation is great. Experts recommend forming a pair of heating circuits, and not one. One line is being built underground, which is made of plastic pipes that serve to migrate water with a temperature of about +30 degrees. It is required to lay such pipes as close to the roots as possible.

The second tier is located under the dome and is made on the basis of radiators. Most often, forced pump circulation is used in greenhouses, the gravitational flow of water is much less often used.

It is useful to supplement the heating circuit with thermal regulators that allow you to control the operation of the system in automatic mode. There will be no need to fear that during your long absence the greenhouse will overheat or overcool. Radiators in greenhouses are made of cast iron, aluminum or bimetallic.

For your information: there are systems in which there are no radiators at all. Then the space under the dome is heated using a round steel pipe of significant cross section. Expansion tanks are made either open or closed, but without them, unlike radiators, systems cannot be mounted. It turns out to save money when expanders are not bought, but cooked from metal sheets at home. As for the chimney, along with traditional brickwork, the creation of asbestos-cement channels and the use of steel pipes of round or square section is practiced.

If possible, it is recommended to take pipes in sandwich format. This is the most modern and practical solution. As for circulation pumps, here, too, not everything is as simple as most summer residents think. In budget-class greenhouses, if a pressure difference is provided, the gravitational pumping mode can also be used. Again, the choice of components is determined primarily by considerations of a material nature.

Furnaces or heating boilers are mainly placed in the vestibules of greenhouses, much less often they are given a place inside. The advantage of the external location is that the fuel stacked nearby does not interfere with movement in the greenhouse and does not create problems during operation. But internal placement also has its plus - it contributes to obtaining an additional amount of heat. We must weigh the pros and cons, evaluating the available space. Any boiler and any furnace definitely deserve the installation of a foundation.

If the stove is made of brick, a concrete base is poured under it. But it is enough to put metal heat generators on a sheet of steel or asbestos cement. In any case, you should take care of the most reliable installation of the system.

When installing the chimney, attention is paid to ensuring that any joint and turn are thoroughly sealed. Even the best cement cracks when heated significantly, so clay mortar should be used instead.

Connection to the inlet and outlet pipes of the boilers must be made using steel pipes strictly identical in diameter. Only after 1-1.5 m they can be replaced with plastic elements. Expansion tanks are placed in the highest places of buildings near furnaces and boilers. They must be preceded in the hydraulic circuit by an automatic blocking valve and a pressure gauge. When equipping radiators with cut-off valves, the inlet and outlet pipes must be separated by jumpers, then one stopped battery will not paralyze the entire system.

Soil heating is recommended to be provided with pipes based on cross-linked polyethylene. It is very good when a circuit that performs a similar task is supplemented by control automation. It should set the modes of operation corresponding to the specifics of certain plants. The very device of soil heating in greenhouses is quite close to the well-known "warm floor". Those who have already installed such a floor are unlikely to encounter special difficulties.

An insulating layer of waterproof material helps to avoid heat loss in the ground, most often it turns out to be polystyrene foam. Polyethylene film helps to enhance the waterproofing properties. The pipes are laid out on a sand cushion, which are pre-washed and compacted after backfilling. The thickness of the pillow should be 100-150 mm, this will ensure both uniform heating and zero risk of overdrying the earth; 300-350 mm of fertile soil must be placed above the heating layer.

oven

One of the popular solutions in summer cottages is stove heating of greenhouses, however, it also has its pros and cons.

Advantages and disadvantages

Suppliers of all boilers and other heating elements for the greenhouse industry focus on high efficiency. But modern stoves show an equally impressive efficiency. Therefore, it is naive to consider them frivolous rivals of boiler equipment.

• low cost of heating on solid fuel, wood or waste oil;
• simplicity of the system itself (ease of installation and maintenance);
• wide availability of necessary fuel.

Most often, iron stoves are installed in greenhouses, which warm up quickly, but quickly lose their heat charge. The disadvantage of such devices can be considered their "tendency" to dry the air. Even for plants that are accustomed to a dry and hot atmosphere, this is unlikely to be beneficial.

The use of water circuits in the form of radiators or registers helps to reduce the sharpness of temperature jumps.

Selection and installation of the furnace

The classic solid fuel potbelly stove is in demand mainly in greenhouses used in spring and summer.

Such structures are much more mobile than brick ones and remove the obligation to form a foundation. Another important circumstance is the minimum absorption of usable space. It is worth considering such advantages of metal stoves as low cost, the ability to install with your own hands without mastering the art of laying bricks. As for the weaknesses, it is necessary to mention the unsuitability of such stoves for automation. Chimneys from metal stoves should be placed at an angle of at least 15 degrees to enhance heating.

The metal pipe itself must be devoid of any insulation. But at the intersections with the top or wall, it is required to mount a box impervious to heat. Any steel oven must be installed in such a way that it is absolutely impossible for it to fall. Many times such events have caused fires and loss of property.

In regions with harsh weather conditions, charcoal stoves can be used, which produce more heat and retain it longer.

But the problem is the increased amount of waste and increased toxicity of combustion products when using coal fuel. Some of its types are capable of igniting on their own and deserve specific conditions when accumulated. Behind last years the popularity of stoves on sawdust or fuel briquettes has grown, which are becoming standard in design and emit a minimum amount of smoke.

But diesel ovens are not suitable at all. They emit poisonous smoke, besides, the slightest oversight can cause an emergency.

What to be guided by when choosing?

Speaking of the most best projects for heating the greenhouse, it is worth noting that they do not include the use of convectors. By themselves, they heat only the air, and the soil layer remains cold, as it was before the system was turned on. Therefore, you have to take care of biological heating, which is extremely important during frosts in early spring. But there is a better strategy - this is the use of a system of heaters in the form of mats or cable laying (heating tapes). For winter, this solution is just perfect, especially because it allows you to warm only those places that are really needed.

The risk is that the slightest mistake in calculating the required temperature can burn the roots of plants. Geothermal heating of greenhouses in a small private household is completely unprofitable, since it requires very large investments in equipment and begins to give returns too late. The use of solar batteries or heating lamps is auxiliary. The former cope mainly with the effects of a cold summer, while others are needed to create optimal conditions for seedlings. Therefore, a serious choice arises only between electric heating (including infrared) and boilers (stoves) on various types of fuel.

Popular types

If you need to heat the greenhouse economically and simply without electricity and without gas, the choice naturally leans in favor of the biological method. Gardeners who are accustomed to working in the ground and in contact with dirty substances, such heating will not cause much mental anguish. In addition, it is completely environmentally friendly and allows you to heat the beds. In northern latitudes and in places with an unstable, unstable climatic regime, heating a greenhouse space can only be done relatively cheaply, because one or another fuel will still have to be spent. If the site is gasified and the greenhouse area is small, you can feed the burners or heaters from cylinders.

If the heated beds are very large, this method cannot be considered economical. You will have to connect to a centralized heating system for the site or look for other ways. The high cost of electric current, as already mentioned, has a slightly lesser effect on the costs of gardeners when choosing a rail scheme. Instead of an infrared film or a “warm floor”, you can still use water pipes connected to an electric boiler. But here the system becomes more complicated, and it is rarely possible to mount it without the help of professionals.

For water heating in a greenhouse with your own hands, see the following video.

Making the heating of the greenhouse yourself is real. So that heating does not turn out to be unprofitable, it is useful before planning landings to get acquainted with the climatogram of a particular area.

Table of minimum temperatures of the territory, available on the network, will tell you in which months which frosts can be expected. This information will save you from heating the greenhouse during the period when it would be technically and economically inexpedient to warm it up.

Types of greenhouse heating, how to do it yourself

There are several ways to heat greenhouses.

biological

This is the oldest method of heating greenhouses, which does not lose its relevance to this day. Suitable for heating greenhouses spring and autumn. This option is quite labor intensive.

Peculiarities

Biological heating is based on heat release during decay of organic waste in. More often, cow or horse manure is used to heat greenhouses, including mixed with chopped straw.

One bookmark is enough for 3-4 months, thus, per season may need one or two bookmarks. Plants may need to be removed, so it is more appropriate to use this method for plants with a short growing season.

How to do it right

1. Prepare manure. It must be kept well dried.
2. A week before laying, “warm up” manure: put in a pile, spill with warm water. When the pile begins to soar, the manure is ready to be laid.
3. Spread in ditches or just in a layer 30-60 cm.
4. Pour on top 20-25 cm soil in which to plant the plants.

If do second bookmark does not make sense, for example, there are few plants left or time before hard frosts, then consider additional ways heating, for example episodic electrical.

After all, even at the end of the season, temperature drops are short-term, and you may have to heat the greenhouse only a few nights a month.

Water

This type is implemented as part unified system home heating(in this case, a common house boiler is used, but the heating circuit must be separate in order to turn it off for the winter), and it is also possible to install a separate system (an additional boiler is required).

Features of operation depend on the type of boiler, they are:

• solid fuel;
• gas;
• electric.

Another option is use of a solar collector.

solid fuel less convenient due to the need to periodically manually place it in the firebox. Gas and electric heating more automated, but electricity is much more expensive than gas. Solar panels will require impressive initial costs, but will be as economical as possible in operation.

Photo 1. Solar collector installed on the roof. It is an economical way to heat greenhouses.

And there is also the easiest option for using water to increase the temperature in the greenhouse. If placed in it one or more barrels of water(especially black ones), during the day they will warm up in the sun, and at night they will heat the greenhouse.

How to do it right

Depending on the selected type of water heating, a system diagram is designed. It may include boiler or solar panels, pipes, radiators, circulation pump and other components. The selected option should be studied in detail, consultants of the companies selling it will also provide assistance in choosing equipment. It is optimal to attract specialists for design, although many necessary information for self-creation of the circuit today posted on the network.

You will also be interested in:

Electrical

Greenhouse electrification - very useful thing not only for heating.

Can be created practically automated system , which will maintain the right temperature, humidity and light for growing specific plants.

Features of electric heating

A feature of this type of heating is a variety of technical solutions. Here are some current options:

• electric boiler with water heating system;
• infrared heating devices;
• heat guns;
• heating system for solar panels;
• split systems with heating function.

Photo 2. Infrared heaters for heating greenhouses. The devices are installed under the ceiling of the greenhouse.

How to do it right

It is believed that electric heating is expensive. A well-thought-out scheme of such heating minimizes costs. Here are some solutions for this:

1. It is important to determine the period when the temperature in your area does not drop significantly below zero. The use of a greenhouse only during a period of predominantly positive temperatures will significantly reduce heating costs throughout the year.
2. Use the installation of water barrels for heat storage from natural sunlight and low-cost ways to raise the temperature, such as biological.
3. Take advantage of solar panels. This not only minimizes operating costs, but also protects the greenhouse from an emergency power outage.
4. Automate the system, including temperature sensors in it, so that when there is sufficient heating, the devices automatically turn off.

One of the simplest electric heating schemes is the installation of infrared heaters on the ceiling. Their calculation is based on the area of ​​the greenhouse: 1 kW heater power used per 10 sq. m. greenhouses. Thus, for 30 sq. m., for example, you need I 3 heaters of 1 kW. This type of device is often used to save money.

oven

This type of heating is traditionally popular in Russia. due to its autonomy and availability of fuel. Although it can not be called either the most convenient or well amenable to automation.

Photo 3. A solid fuel stove for heating a greenhouse. The device is connected to a water heating circuit.

Peculiarities

In greenhouses, as a rule, metal and brick stoves are used. brick- retain heat longer, cooling slowly, and do not overdry the air. metal- dry the room and cool quickly. To level the second problem, they are supplemented water circuit. The coolant cools down longer, sharp temperature drops are smoothed out.

How to do it right

Furnace selection depends on the seasonality of the use of the greenhouse. If it is planned to be used for several months of the year, a metal stove is better. Such a stove can be removed from the greenhouse for the winter, there is no need to make an additional foundation. A metal stove is often installed in a vestibule, supplemented by a water circuit that enters the greenhouse, which allows you not to dry out the air in the main room with plants.

Brick oven requires foundation and more suitable for year-round use.

Attention! Due to the high temperature of the heating chimney fires are possible.

Heating the greenhouse is the key to getting a good, timely harvest. Many gardeners use water heating of the greenhouse, due to which it is possible to create in buildings of this type the temperature regime necessary for full growth. Such systems are relatively cheap, and the operation is quite simple. And how to make water heating in a greenhouse on your own, you will learn from this publication.

System Benefits

For many years, horticultural farmers could not come to a consensus on what type of greenhouse heating is the most acceptable and profitable. Of course, the selection of a heating system for buildings of this type largely depends on the primary conditions, in particular on the possibility of connecting to a centralized gas or water main. But still in recent times most often used water heating in the greenhouse.

When choosing a greenhouse heating, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the structure, the heating system in a nearby residential building and the size financial resources, which will go to the arrangement of the shelter.

The water heating device is notable for the fact that it is powered by a boiler operating on any type of fuel:

• gas;
• electric;
• solid fuel;
• liquid fuel;
• combined.

In simpler terms, to perform water heating for a greenhouse, you can use all kinds of materials, which greatly reduces costs. And in order to implement water heating of the greenhouse with your own hands, you need to draw up a work plan, where there is a scheme, development projects, based on which the construction will be erected.

The main advantage of such a system is safety (when compared with electric cable and heating devices), and the creation of a humid environment.

Since cellular polycarbonate does not accumulate condensate, the resulting moisture completely drains into the ground, additionally moistening it.

VIDEO: How water heating of a greenhouse works from a gas boiler

Pipes - what should they be

To make water heating for subsoil and overground heating, it is possible to use two types of pipes:

1. Metal. There are many options in this category, but corrugated stainless steel pipes are especially popular among them. They have a high heat dissipation, but at the same time you need to mount them very carefully, placing the system as far as possible from the rhizome of the grown vegetation. Thanks to this, it will be possible to avoid burns of the roots of seedlings and, accordingly, their death.
2. Metal-plastic and plastic. This version of the pipes is characterized by a lower heat transfer coefficient, but at the same time it does an excellent job of heating the structure even in winter.

Sometimes you can find water subsoil heating for greenhouses made of polyethylene pipes. But it should be understood that such systems are suitable only when the coolant temperature does not exceed 40 °.

Many prefer budget options in the form of greenhouse shelters. small area, since large structures are very difficult and financially expensive to heat during the cold season.

It is a fact! If the greenhouse is an extension to a residential building, then it will take less effort and energy to warm it up.

Radiators as a source of heating in greenhouses are rarely used. Instead of such heating elements, gardeners equip their buildings with wide pipes, which are located directly under the arch of the structure.

The universal pipeline laying scheme is considered optimal - from two working circuits:

1. The first one lies under a layer of fertile soil and its task is to heat the root system of plants. The coolant temperature should not be higher than 30-40°C.
2. The second is laid along the walls of the room in order to heat the air directly. In order to control the temperature in the room, it is advisable to install an automatic thermostat that will maintain the optimum level.

Some gardeners install heating pipes under the ceiling for circulation, but this is not practical for large areas. Remembering the laws of physics, warm air rises, and in this case it just doesn't circulate. Near the soil, the air is quite cold, which does not have the best effect on the condition of the plants.

At what depth to lay the pipeline

Pipes, as mentioned above, in most cases are laid under the ground to a certain depth. This indicator is influenced by several points:

• type of crop grown (heat-loving, cold-resistant, etc.);
• preferences of the owner of the greenhouse structure.

Some gardeners lay the pipeline system to a depth of no more than 30 cm, while other owners of such buildings lay pipes 50 cm from the soil level. Both options are acceptable, it all depends on the temperature of the coolant.

It must also be remembered that if the pipeline system is laid too deep, then it will take a long time to create the optimal temperature regime in the room. Whereas in the case of a close location of the pipes to the soil surface, the greenhouse will warm up quickly, but there is a risk that the root system, having reached its largest size, will get burned when in contact with the thermal circuit. And this, in turn, hello to the withering and death of the plant.

Speaking of numbers, when laying the heating circuit to a depth of 50 cm, the warm-up time will be about two weeks. And with a contour depth of 30 cm, this figure will be reduced to 6 days. True, there is some caveat here. In the first case, to maintain the specified temperature conditions in the room, it will be necessary to turn on the system 12 hours a day, while in the second case, it is necessary to heat around the clock.

Water heating device

The furnace or heating boiler, as a rule, is located in the vestibule of the greenhouse shelter, less often in the building itself. The first option, when burning wood or coal, does not prevent moving around the greenhouse and carrying out any work on growing vegetation.

When locating the boiler in the greenhouse room, it must be taken into account that heat also comes from the heating element itself. Choose a place for the boiler with special care so that nearby plants do not suffer from excessive heating.

Algorithm for a water heating device in a greenhouse:

1. First of all, you need to calculate the pipeline system and decide what footage of pipes will be required to implement the task.
2. The next step is the construction of the foundation. If the heating of the greenhouse will be carried out at the expense of a brick oven, then a concrete foundation is needed under it. In the case of a metal heater, a steel or asbestos-cement sheet will fit.
3. After that, you need to remove the chimney from the heater. The joints of this element with the boiler (furnace) must be sealed using, for example, clay mortar.
4. Next, you need to take care of ventilation, without which it will not be possible to achieve a suitable microclimate in buildings of this type.

Only metal pipes of the same diametrical size are connected to the outlet and to the inlet of the heating device. And only at a distance of 1-1.5 m from the boiler, you can switch to plastic or metal-plastic pipes.

1. Before laying the pipeline assembly, you need to install an expansion tank at the highest point of the room in close proximity to the heating equipment. It is recommended to install an auto-air shut-off valve and a pressure gauge upstream of the expander.
2. After that, you can proceed to the installation of pipes. The method of laying the heating pipeline depends on the size of the room. The only thing I would like to add is that the step of laying the contour of plastic pipes should be at least 30 cm.

In order to prevent the escape of thermal energy into the ground, the heat-insulating layer is made of a material that does not allow moisture to pass through (for example, polystyrene foam). And on top of the thermal insulation, you can perform another layer of waterproofing, for which PET film is used.

Now you know how to make water heating in your greenhouse so that the soil and plants growing indoors are always in a suitable microclimate. A thorough approach to the implementation of the task will help you get a high-quality, timely harvest!

VIDEO: Water heating with a pump

The heating of the greenhouse allows it to be used for growing various crops throughout the year. This makes it possible to get up to three harvests per year and grow a variety of heat-loving exotic plants, creating optimal conditions for their development.

Greenhouses can be heated in different ways. Each option has a number of important features and benefits. Check out the most popular heating methods, learn tips on choosing the best option and get started.

What to consider when choosing a heating system?

When choosing a heating system, it is necessary to pay attention to the overall dimensions of the room and its type, because. for different materials, the required heating intensity will also vary. For example, polyethylene is characterized by high heat loss, so this material will require more intensive heating compared to a polycarbonate greenhouse.

When arranging the heating of a greenhouse, consider the size of the total cost of installing the system and its maintenance. Some heating options require serious financial investments, and their use in small greenhouses will be impractical. Others are simple and inexpensive to set up, but consume a lot of fuel in the process.

Otherwise, the owner must decide for himself how beneficial it will be to use one or another heating option specifically for his situation. The main thing is that the system provides, does not dry out the air and creates optimal conditions for the development of cultivated crops.

Greenhouse heating options

Familiarize yourself with the main features of the systems most commonly used to heat greenhouses.

This option should be considered if it is possible to connect the heating of the greenhouse to the heating system of the house.

Laid from the house to the greenhouse, they need high-quality insulation. The power reserve of the boiler must be sufficient to provide the required level of heating for both the house itself and the greenhouse.

If the length of the pipeline between the house and the greenhouse exceeds 10 m, it is better to refuse to use such a system.

There is also a way to organize an autonomous steam heating. In this case, the boiler is installed in the greenhouse. Pipes and batteries are connected to the heating unit, the coolant is supplied. Water is traditionally used as a heat carrier.

To ensure forced circulation of water, the system, as a rule, is equipped with appropriate pumping equipment.

For organization, air heated in the furnace of a special boiler is used. Such heating is characterized by minimal cash costs for fuel and high rates thermal return.

In about half an hour after starting the equipment, the air temperature in the greenhouse can rise by 20 degrees. An added advantage system is the absence of the need to use any intermediate coolants.

Air heating is best suited for regions with a mild climate. In more severe conditions, it is recommended to use a complex of air and steam heating.

In such a system, heat is generated by the combustion of gas. It is possible to equip the system both by connecting to a stationary gas supply, and by using fuel in cylinders.

During the operation of the system, there is an intensive intake of air from the heated room, accompanied by the release of water, carbon dioxide and other wastes that are dangerous for humans and, of course, plants. In view of this, the arrangement will entail additional costs for the organization of the ventilation system.

Such heating is well suited for small greenhouses. However, when used over large areas, the cost and complexity of maintenance can be prohibitive.

Modern electric heating units allow you to equip the efficient heating of the greenhouse without much effort.

Among the main advantages of such devices, it should be noted that in the process of their work only heating of plants and soil occurs. The air does not warm up. It gradually receives heat from the heated earth. This allows you to equip the most efficient and economical heating system.

Modern systems are equipped with sensors and temperature controllers, which gives ample opportunities for dividing the greenhouse into different thermal zones and providing maximum comfortable conditions for each group of plants.

Prices for popular models of infrared heaters

The main unit in such a heating system is a solid fuel boiler, which, as a rule, works on wood or coal.

The simplest furnace heating system includes a solid fuel boiler and a chimney that goes from the greenhouse to the street. Additionally, you can complete the system with pipes and radiators, which will allow you to organize the most efficient and high-quality heating.

The chimney needs regular cleaning from fuel combustion products.

Both conventional wood-burning stoves and modern ones are available on the market. Such devices do not need frequent filling of fuel and consume it as efficiently as possible.

Installing a solid fuel boiler directly in the greenhouse will cause the air and soil to dry out, as a result of which the cultivated plantings may simply die. To prevent this from happening, when installing a solid fuel boiler in a greenhouse, it is imperative to equip an air humidification system. Usually it is enough to install a large container of water.

Stove greenhouse heating is the most popular heating option. In addition, there is nothing complicated in arranging such a system - even a novice master will cope with the work. Also, solid fuel heating unconditionally outperforms electric heating in terms of cost. That is why the procedure for organizing heating of a greenhouse will be considered using the example of stove heating.

Arrangement of furnace heating of the greenhouse

First option

First step. In the vestibule of the greenhouse, lay out the brick furnace of the stove on a pre-equipped foundation.

Second phase. Lay out along the entire length of the room.

Third stage. Lead the flue pipe out of the greenhouse from the other side. As a result, the products of combustion will be effectively removed from the room, and the heat will remain inside.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Second option

First step. Prepare a large metal barrel. Paint its inner surface in two layers - this will provide protection against corrosion.

Second step. Make several holes in the body. To one of them you will connect the chimney. Others will be used to connect the tap and expansion tank.

Third step. Weld the oven sheet metal and insert it into the prepared barrel.

Fourth step. Weld a piece of pipe to the hole in the barrel to connect the chimney. The total length of the smoke exhaust structure should be at least 4-5 m.

Fifth step. Install the expansion tank on the barrel. A capacity of 20-30 liters will suffice. You can buy a tank or weld it yourself from sheet metal.

Sixth step. Run piping around the greenhouse. Lay the pipes on the ground with a step of 120 cm. This arrangement of the heating elements will contribute to the effective heating of the soil in the places where plant roots are located.

Seventh stage. Install to force water circulation through the system.

Turn on the water supply and make sure all connections are tight. If leaks are found, seal them immediately. Only after that you can start testing the stove and take the heating system into permanent operation.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself greenhouse heating

Boiler for a greenhouse from a gas cylinder

To work, you will need an empty gas cylinder directly, a coil (a U-shaped tube with threads at the ends), a metal grill, a gate valve, hinges and two metal door handles. You should also prepare a pipe for the chimney, taking into account the length of the greenhouse, welding machine with electrodes, a drill and a grinder, pipes and a radiator for the heating circuit. For the front wall of the furnace, a small sheet of steel is required.

From these simple devices, a boiler with a water circuit is assembled to heat the country greenhouse.

Step 1

After making sure that the balloon is empty, we saw it with a grinder in two. One of the parts will serve as the body of the furnace, from the second we will make an ash box.

Step 2

We take the grate, make measurements and cut it so that the resulting segment fits inside the cylinder. We grab the grate by welding. Now the stove is divided into a fuel combustion chamber (2/3 of the volume) and an ash pan (1/3 of the volume).

Step 3

We put the cylinder on a sheet of steel, circle it with chalk, cut out the front wall according to the markings. Cut off 1/3 of the circle. From this piece we make the ash pan door by welding the handle and cutting out a semicircular piece for the bottom of the drawer from the second part of the cylinder.

We cut a rectangular hole in a larger piece of the wall. We weld hinges, a handle and a latch (latch) to the cut out rectangle. The door should tightly close the firebox.

Step 4

We introduce a coil (water circuit) inside the furnace. We make markings for the coil, drill two holes in the upper part of the furnace to bring out the ends of the threaded pipe. We weld the coil to the metal plate and the top of the furnace.

Step 5

We equip the chimney. We cut a hole for the pipe in the upper back of the furnace. We weld a pipe to connect the chimney. We monitor the quality, otherwise the draft and operation of the boiler will be impaired.

We weld the chimney pipe in such a way that it will pass at an inclination of about 20 degrees through the entire greenhouse. The chimney will exit through the back wall of the greenhouse, rising 1 meter above the roof. Be sure to consider thermal insulation at the point of contact between the greenhouse wall and the chimney, so that a fire does not happen.

We connect the chimney pipe to the furnace pipe using sheet asbestos and a coupling, tightening it with wire.

Step 6

We connect metal pipes for the water circuit to the ends of the coil that are brought out. The piping must contain an expansion tank and a pump that will pump water through the pipes.

Thus, the water heated in the coil will flow into the radiator, and when it cools down, it will again fall into the boiler. The chimney pipe will serve as an additional source of heat. Also, a long chimney will reduce heat loss, increasing the efficiency of the boiler.

Step 7

We install the stove in the greenhouse, having previously built a brick or concrete base and laid out a brick screen on three sides of the firebox. For stability, the furnace can be equipped with legs made of any fittings or long products.

We load fuel into the stove, ignite it, adjust the draft by opening or closing the firebox / ash pan door.

To maintain a certain temperature in the greenhouse, different heating systems are used. The choice of heat supply method depends on the dimensions of the building, the climatic conditions of the region, the availability of a particular type of fuel, financial capabilities and other factors.

Some home craftsmen undertake to organize the heating of the greenhouse with their own hands - such a solution will significantly reduce labor costs, agree? Of course, self-arrangement of stable heating is not an easy task, but it is quite feasible. The first step is to choose a heat source.

We will tell you what options for greenhouse heating exist, what are their specifics of work, the advantages and disadvantages of using them. Based on the information provided, you will be able to determine the type of heating, perform a preliminary calculation of the thermal power, select the working units and elements of the system.

Greenhouse heating is necessary to compensate for heat losses that occur through the walls and ceiling of the structure, as well as due to the ingress of outside air. To reduce heating costs, it is first of all necessary to insulate the greenhouse with high quality and minimize air exchange with the street.

In addition to the material from which the greenhouse is made, special attention should be paid to the snug fit of the structure to the soil. To do this, it is better to make a foundation of small depth insulated from the inside when building a greenhouse.

It must securely hold the structure in strong winds, prevent the formation of cracks and minimize heat exchange with the street through the top layer of soil.

To solve the latter problem, even in the conditions of the northern regions, 30 cm depth is sufficient, since the thermal conductivity of the soil is very low. The intensity of vertical heat exchange between the soil layer inside the greenhouse and the soil underlying the soil layer is very low.

In winter, snow can be used as a natural external insulation around the edges of the greenhouse.

Snow is an excellent insulating material. However, the structure of the greenhouse must be able to support the additional weight, and the material must not sag under its weight.

For the normal growth of plants, it is necessary to maintain the temperature of the air and the soil-vegetative layer in a certain range. If the greenhouse operates continuously, then the fertile soil will be warmed up due to heat exchange with the internal air. Moreover, its temperature will be almost the same as under natural conditions in summer.

The soil and soil layers freeze in winter to a depth that depends on the geographic latitude of the location of the region and the structure of the rock. To warm the soil and the upper layer adjacent to it before planting, it is necessary either to maintain a positive air temperature for a very long time (up to a month).

An alternative solution is to carry out special actions to transfer heat directly into the soil. This can be done using a system of underground pipes into which the coolant is supplied.

The amount of energy spent on heating the greenhouse depends on the following factors:

• The surface area of ​​the walls and roof of the greenhouse. The lower this figure, the lower the heat loss. Therefore, to save energy, it is better to use a rectangular or semicircular shape of the structure.
• Material thermal conductivity coefficient. The lower this parameter, the better material retains heat.
• Temperature difference between indoor and outdoor air. The larger its value, the greater the heat loss.
• Air exchange through leaks. To reduce energy costs, it is necessary to eliminate the uncontrolled influx of cold air.

A wide variety of projects of private greenhouses and the quality of their installation seriously complicates the modeling of the temperature regime. Therefore, it is possible to accurately determine the amount of energy required for heating a particular object only experimentally.

Such methods approximately calculate the value of the required power of the heater. The problem lies in the difficulty of determining the dispersion coefficient for a particular object (+)

Autonomous heating based on fuel combustion

Using the combustion process as a heat source is the most commonly used heating method for small greenhouses. Such heating has some specifics, since it is necessary to take into account the increased tightness of the room, the desirability of heating the soil and the need to maintain humidity.

Furnaces and solid fuel boilers

One of the simplest devices used in heating greenhouses during the cold period is a stove. The popularity of the use of such a device is due to the cheapness of fuel. They can be uncalibrated firewood, dry grass, coal and coal dust, garbage and flammable liquids.

With stove heating, it is necessary to ensure stable draft, since ventilation of the greenhouse when combustion products get inside will lead to its cooling.

When using a metal furnace, heating occurs quickly and energy is transferred to the surrounding air. It is also the cheapest and easiest heating method to use. You can build such a unit yourself.

On our site there is a selection of articles on the manufacture different types metal furnaces that can be used to heat the greenhouse:

The stone oven heats up more slowly and keeps heat longer. This is more suitable for heating small spaces with a medium or narrow temperature range. However, such a furnace must be folded and, if necessary, it cannot be moved, like its metal counterpart.

There is an idea of ​​heating the space in the greenhouse with the help of hot combustion products. To do this, it is proposed to place the stove in a pit, and lay the chimney horizontally below ground level, with its subsequent exit to the surface.

With this arrangement of the chimney, a significant increase in its length will occur, as a result of which hot gases will give off large quantity heat inside the room

This option will really increase the efficiency of heating.

However, in practical implementation, the following difficulties will arise:

1. Demanding on the material of the chimney assembly. The air temperature at the outlet of the furnace is very high. Therefore, the chimney should not have good heat transfer, otherwise the soil around it will burn out. Asbestos pipes can be used as a material for the removal of combustion products.
2. Compliance with the rules for placing a chimney. It will be necessary to provide revision windows in the chimney to clean it from soot. Therefore, it is necessary to lay a pipe between the beds.
3. The need for power supply. A long horizontal section does not contribute to the creation of normal traction, so it will be necessary to install a smoke exhauster. This means the need to supply electricity to the greenhouse or periodically recharge the battery.

Therefore, the idea of ​​underground placement of the chimney in practice has not found wide application.

Instead of a standard furnace, solid fuel can be used. They burn fuel more efficiently and do not allow rapid heat release, which eliminates the possibility of damage to plants from high temperatures. These factory-made boilers are easy to use and maintain, as well as compact.

Gas boilers and convectors

For greenhouses, the use of a gas or convector has become a good alternative to stove heating. For small private structures, equipment operating on the basis of gas cylinders is usually used.

Before installing a gas boiler in a greenhouse, it is necessary to thoroughly strengthen one of the walls to which it will be attached

It is better to place a gas cylinder outside the greenhouse. But in this case, it is necessary to solve the issue of preventing freezing of the gearbox during a long period with a negative temperature.

Connecting a greenhouse to a gas network is a rather complicated bureaucratic procedure. In addition, during the annual mandatory inspection by a gas service specialist, comments will be made.

In any case, the presence of a combination of gas supply and the use of open fire in a closed room requires increased security measures. The best solution is the presence of a gas analyzer, as well as an automatic flame extinguishing system that is triggered when the MPC of a combustible substance in the air is exceeded.

From the standpoint of comparing financial costs for the installation and use of stoves and gas equipment, an unambiguous conclusion cannot be drawn. A simple gas convector costs about 12-14 thousand rubles.

This is more expensive than metal solid fuel devices:

• metal costs and expendable materials with self-manufacturing stove-potbelly stoves amount to about 3 thousand rubles;
• factory solid fuel unit of small size, for example, the model NVU-50 "Tulinka" costs about 6.6 thousand rubles.
• installation of long burning model NV-100 "Klondike" costs about 9 thousand rubles.

A stone oven will be more expensive than a gas convector due to the cost of the foundation and its laying.

It is advisable to install a stone oven if you are sure that the greenhouse will be located at this place for more than one year

The cost of liquefied or natural gas spent on heating any room will be cheaper than purchased firewood and coal. However, greenhouses are heated, as a rule, with free or cheap combustible waste, which is always enough in rural and suburban areas.

The problem of air leakage and humidity

The use of heating devices in which open combustion of fuel occurs, leads to the need to remove combustion products through the chimney. In this case it is necessary to compensate the volume of outgoing air.

In buildings, it is possible through uncontrolled inflow (infiltration) which occurs due to the presence of cracks and holes in the walls and ceiling.

The construction of modern greenhouses, such as polycarbonate, creates an airtight space. In this case, the problem of air intake is solved by the presence of air vents and the installation of a special inlet.

It should be placed in such a way as to avoid a concentrated flow of cold air on the plants. It is also possible to use several small holes to organize a distributed inflow.

Exhaust systems for gas convectors of closed type are already equipped with a pipe for the inflow of outside air into the combustion chamber.

Often after the operation of furnaces and boilers, the effect of dehumidifying the air is observed. This is due to the lower absolute humidity of the incoming cold flow (especially frosty) in relation to the warm air leaving the greenhouse through the chimney.

To maintain accurate parameters of air humidity, a humidifier with a hygrometer is used, which can operate from a local energy source. In the absence of such a need, you can place an open container with water in the greenhouse. Then, in the case of strong dehumidification of the air, the evaporation process will naturally occur.

Ways to evenly distribute heat

For small greenhouses, it is enough to place one heating source. The air circulation in the room will be provided due to the vertical temperature difference and, thus, the distribution of warm air will occur.

In any greenhouse, when it is heated, a slight vertical temperature difference occurs. This must be remembered when positioning thermometers.

In rooms of a large area or complex geometry, it is possible to form zones with different microclimate parameters. This is sometimes done on purpose in industrial greenhouses, but in most cases this phenomenon is undesirable.

To evenly distribute heat, two methods are used:

• Creation of artificial air circulation. Typically, bladed fans are used. Sometimes a duct system with integrated pumps is built so that air is taken in at one end of the room and exhausted at the other.
• Heat transfer due to intermediate heat carrier. As a rule, they use ordinary water system with forced circulation. Pipes can be laid both around the perimeter of the greenhouse and under a layer of soil.

Forced heat distribution is also necessary to prevent the formation of a high temperature zone near the heater. Otherwise, plants located near the oven or boiler may be thermally damaged.

Popular methods of heating without open fire

The use of open fire has some limitations, since combustion waste is released, and fire prevention measures must be observed. Therefore, other methods are often used to release heat into the greenhouse room.

Application of electrical appliances

Using electricity to heat a greenhouse in winter is the most expensive way. However, it is also the simplest, since the installation of such heating includes only wiring and installation of appliances.

The use of simple automation systems frees a person from the need to participate in constant monitoring of the microclimate.

The scheme for connecting several heaters through a thermostat is quite simple. The only problem may be a power outage, so you need to provide for the connection of additional power sources (+)

Electric heating of the greenhouse can be performed using the following devices:

• Heater. The simplest and cheapest device that you can do yourself.
• Convector. The presence of a fan allows, in addition to heating the air, to carry out its uniform distribution throughout the greenhouse.
• Heat pump. A powerful device for heating air in large volume greenhouses, which is often used in conjunction with a duct system for heat distribution. For heating a compact room, you can do it yourself.
• infrared lamps. The specificity of the operation of such devices lies in the heating of the surface on which the radiation falls. Thus, it is possible to equalize the vertical temperature gradient in the room without the use of air circulation.
• Heating cable. It is used to heat local areas in a greenhouse.

In the case of small premises, the use of electric heating is justified because of its simplicity and safety. In large and industrial greenhouses, it is advisable to use other methods.

The heating cable is well suited for ground heating. Its maximum temperature is not high, so the effect of burning the soil with the loss of its qualities can not be feared

Biochemical heat release

One of the interesting ways of heating is the introduction of undecayed organic fertilizer into the soil - animal manure or bird droppings. As a result of a biochemical reaction, a large amount of energy is released, which increases the temperature of the fertile layer and indoor air.

When manure rots, carbon dioxide, methane, as well as a small amount of hydrogen and hydrogen sulfide are released. Also, manure has a specific smell. All this imposes certain restrictions on its use, associated with the need to ventilate the room.

In winter, as well as during prolonged cold snaps in spring and autumn, intensive air exchange is undesirable. In this case, the restoration of the heat balance after ventilation may require significantly more energy than was released as a result of the manure decay process.

The use of such a “biological” method of heating the earth and air is justified in late spring, when airing occurs at positive daytime temperatures.

Systems with an external heat source

Heating of the greenhouse is possible due to the proximity of the house or other heated building. This simplifies the whole procedure, as there is no need to install an independent heat source. Using wired or wi-fi relays, you can remotely receive information about the temperature in the greenhouse and adjust its microclimate from home.

An ordinary wi-fi temperature complex of a sensor and a relay costs about 2 thousand rubles. When the temperature goes outside the allowable range, it transmits its values ​​to devices under Windows control or Android

Creation of a separate heating circuit

If the house uses water or steam heating, then it is possible to create a separate circuit leading to the greenhouse. It must be provided with a separate pump, since the total horizontal extent of the new segment will be large.

Also in the greenhouse you need to install an expansion tank open type to remove air from the system. Square open water the tank must be minimized to prevent intensive evaporation of hot water into the room.

Radiators are rarely installed in a greenhouse, since the design of its premises plays a secondary role. With a lack of heat, it is better to lengthen the pipe contour, as this is cheaper and reduces the risk of leaks and breakages.

The outdoor segment of the circuit must be insulated to avoid heat loss and minimize the risk of freezing. The underground option for placing pipes is best suited for these purposes.

The connection of the heating segment of the greenhouse to the general circuit can be performed using a three- or four-way valve.

Standard scheme for connecting an additional heating circuit. The location of the taps in the house allows you to remotely control the air temperature in the greenhouse (+)

It is also possible to create an automatic temperature control system.

This can be done in the following ways:

• Change in the volume of hot water passed, depending on the readings of temperature sensors. In this case, it is necessary to purchase a pump with power control.
• Switching the greenhouse heating circuit on and off. For this use automatic systems crane control.

Instead of manually changing the position of a three- or four-way valve, servo-based devices can be used. Its electronic control unit is tuned to the readings placed in the greenhouse.

The servomotor for automatic adjustment is large in relation to the valve. Therefore, to install it, it is necessary to take the heating pipe away from the wall

Heating with exhaust air

Good heating can be obtained by using the warm air of the exhaust ventilation of a residential building. By directing the insulated ventilation duct inside the greenhouse, you can get a constant incoming flow with a temperature of 20-25°C.

The only condition is that the air does not contain excess moisture and impurities that are typical for kitchens and bathrooms.

The outflow of air from the greenhouse can be organized in two ways:

• Local exhaust opening to the street in the form of a tube without a fan. It must be of small cross section to create high speed flow. In this case, at a negative outdoor temperature, the condensate formation zone will be at some distance from the tube, which will prevent the formation of ice.
• Returning the flow back using an additional duct and its mandatory connection to a common house hood. Otherwise, the smells from the greenhouse will spread throughout the house.

This method is the most economical in terms of one-time system installation costs and recurring fuel costs. The only question remains the sufficiency of the extract volume to maintain the required temperature. It is better to check it experimentally.

If sometimes, during extreme cold snaps, the air temperature in the greenhouse drops below the permissible level, then a small heater can be built into the duct, or an additional electrical device can be installed at the facility itself.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Homemade stove with a long chimney for heating a greenhouse:

Most projects can be implemented in-house, which will reduce their cost and provide an opportunity for further independent modernization.