Is it possible to plant both cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse: features, compatibility, joint cultivation. Is it possible to plant cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse - the secrets of joint cultivation Is it possible to grow cucumbers together with tomatoes

In any living organism, be it a plant or an animal, nature has a certain genetic code that determines its properties and requirements for the environment.

Breeding work carried out over many decades with seed material has made it possible to change and improve the appearance and taste of vegetables.

But very rarely they are given the opportunity to change their requirements for the growing environment, although some plants can adapt to changing conditions in nature through mutation processes.

Hot India with high air humidity the birthplace of the cucumber. In the wild, it still grows in those places.

Cucumber images have been found on the frescoes of Ancient Egypt and Greek temples. A vegetable known in such ancient times in other countries in Russia was first mentioned in printed sources in the 16th century.

The cucumber supposedly came to us from East Asia, but surprisingly, it came to our taste and became a truly national product.

Plentiful crops of cucumbers are grown in most of the country - in greenhouses and on the ground. And then, with love and diligence, they prepare cucumbers for eating all year round.

wild tomatoes were first discovered in South America during the expedition of Christopher Columbus, and their seeds were brought to Europe because of the decorative bushes. At home, tomato thickets were found on dry and ventilated mountain slopes. The climate of those places was ideal for tomatoes - mild, temperate, with occasional heavy rains. Round-the-clock temperatures ranged from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius.

REFERENCE: In Holland, France and Germany, tomatoes were grown in the greenhouses of wealthy people, planted for decoration in gardens and near gazebos. Their fruits were considered poisonous. And only in 1811, the German Botanical Dictionary posted on its pages information that tomatoes can be eaten.

Tomato seeds came to Russia under Catherine II, but only at the beginning of the 19th century they began to be grown in the southern regions of the country as edible culture and get good harvests.

A photo

In the photo below you can see cucumbers and tomatoes in one polycarbonate greenhouse:

Capricious neighbors

If the garden has only one greenhouse, but I really want to get a crop of those and other favorite vegetables, then the desire to experiment often wins. Desperate summer residents and gardeners boldly divide the greenhouse area into two adjacent zones and plant tomato seedlings on one, and cucumber seedlings on the other. And what is the compatibility of cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse? Let's try to answer this question.

During the summer, both crops in a polycarbonate greenhouse receive the same care and grow. in one microclimate with the same conditions. With special diligence, the owners do not remain without a crop, but it cannot be called plentiful.

The reason for this is all the same genetics, requiring different conditions for each type of vegetable close to those in which their distant wild relatives once grew.

For cucumbers the optimal conditions for favorable growth will be a hot atmosphere, with high, up to 90-100% humidity.

Drafts are detrimental to this culture. Moreover, wet “bathing” procedures significantly increase the yield of cucumbers. To do this, in warm weather, the bushes are well shed under the root and over the leaves, the paths and walls of the greenhouse are plentifully watered.

Then the doors are tightly closed and maintained in this mode for 1-1.5 hours, after which the greenhouse is opened for ventilation. The leaves of cucumbers are very large, such procedures allow them to safely cope with the evaporation of moisture, preventing drying out.

With insufficient moisture, cucumbers grow tasteless, ugly.

Tomatoes feel better in a different microclimate. Like their relatives in the wild, they prefer low humidity, between 40 and 60%. They love ventilation.

Watering tomatoes is enough on average 2 times a week. In a too humid environment, the pollen in the flowers sticks together, the fruits in the racemes are not tied. The consequence of high humidity in the greenhouse is always the appearance of fungal and bacterial diseases of tomatoes.

The yield of vegetables decreases, the taste of fruits deteriorates, cracks appear on them.

With such different requirements, any compromise will mean a situation where both sides lose, so it is worth trying to change the conditions by installing separate zones in permanent greenhouses.

We share living space: growing cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse

Divide the greenhouse can be in two parts partitions from slate, polyethylene curtains, plywood. In the far "room", where the window is located, cucumbers are planted. Here they will be protected from drafts, it will be possible to provide them with high humidity.

Tomato plantings will be placed on the square near the greenhouse door. It is possible, by keeping the door constantly open, to maintain a relatively low humidity and the desired temperature in the greenhouse.

In order to prevent water from flowing from one department to another, it will be necessary to make a barrier to separate the soil to a depth.

Now you can pamper the tomato bushes with good dressings, which they love very much. This is especially true for tall varieties of tomatoes.

Cucumbers in a personal "room" plentiful water procedures and high humidity are provided without much damage to neighbors. And for tomatoes - generous watering with warm water, strictly under the root, avoiding contact with the leaves.

For lovers of the process itself, working with plants, planting tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse, will bring pleasure even if the vegetable harvest is not huge.

Most importantly, with any method, there will be pimply green cucumbers and poured raspberry tomatoes in the basket.

ATTENTION: Experienced gardeners, determined to get the highest possible yield, will adhere to strict rules, creating optimal conditions for each of the crops. They will grow all vegetables in a separate greenhouse, except when the same environment is needed for growth. For example, the same cucumbers and sweet peppers or melons. Or tomatoes and various green vegetables.

So, is it possible to plant both cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse? The answer to the question of how to plant, when to plant, as well as the decision which way to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse to choose, whether it will be joint or not, remains the right of every gardener. If fussing in the garden is more desirable than the opportunity to get more harvest- experiments just for you!

Useful video

Video about growing cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse, see below:

Of course, ideally, each crop should be under a separate protective structure. But what if it's difficult? How to combine these different cultures?

Should I plant cucumbers and tomatoes together?

Experienced gardeners believe that growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse is not the best option to harvest a large crop.

The fact is that tomatoes and cucumbers are completely different crops with distinct needs. The differences are in the need for lighting, the level of humidity.

Planting cucumbers and tomatoes together can lead to a problematic situation. Summer residents strive to meet the needs of each crop, but this leads to a decrease in yield. By increasing the level of humidity in the greenhouse, the growth of tomatoes slows down and their immunity decreases, and the risk of damage to the tomato by phytophthora increases. Pollen in seedlings becomes wet, inflorescences cease to be pollinated. As a result, new ovaries do not appear on plants.

If, on the contrary, create comfortable conditions for the tomato, then this will reduce the yield of cucumbers. Reduced air humidity, irregular watering, ventilation of the greenhouse can slow down the growth of lashes. Under such adverse conditions, the plant may die.

Comfortable conditions:

• Tomatoes: low air humidity, rare watering, frequent ventilation and drafts, fertilization with phosphorus and potassium.
• cucumbers: air humidity above 85%, frequent watering, air temperature not less than + 22 degrees, fertilization with nitrogen content.

How to find a middle ground if there is no opportunity to grow two different crops of vegetables separately? Tomatoes and cucumbers can still grow together in the same greenhouse. However, for this, several conditions must be met.

It's important to understand! It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each culture. What is the optimal atmosphere in the greenhouse for the growth of both tomatoes and cucumbers.

Conditions for growing crops

Cucumber growing technique

In a polycarbonate greenhouse:

Tomato growing technique

For tomatoes, it is necessary to create completely opposite conditions. The lack of a ventilation system and high humidity will lead to the appearance of late blight. Brown spotting, gray rot appear on plants. Such diseases are dangerous for seedlings.

Tomatoes are rarely watered, as they do not tolerate high humidity. The ideal frequency of moistening the soil is once a week. Proper watering technique is essential. Water should fall under the root, and not on the leaves and stems of the plant. This is necessary so that evaporation does not occur, and water directly goes into the ground.

Tomatoes do not tolerate heat. If the air temperature exceeds +25 degrees, then the fruits stop developing and ripening. It is for this reason that during the day the greenhouse needs to be opened, or an artificial draft created using vents.

Tomatoes do not require nitrogen-based fertilizers. On the contrary, it is worth giving preference to fertilizers that contain phosphorus and potassium.

Watch the video!How to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse

The best varieties for co-cultivation

In order to jointly grow cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is necessary to correctly approach the choice of seed.

It is worth paying attention to such varieties of tomato that are resistant to high levels of humidity and late blight:

• "Dwarf";
• "New Year";
• "Oak";
• "Lyubasha";
• Soyuz 8;
• "Lark";
• "Oakwood";
• "Metelitsa".

These varieties are hybrids and specially bred by experienced agronomists. The varieties of tomatoes presented above have strong immunity and stably tolerate diseases that tomatoes are susceptible to if there is high humidity in the greenhouse. Of course, the choice of such a variety of hybrid crop does not completely minimize the occurrence of problems in co-cultivation. It should be understood that choosing only a special variety of tomatoes is not enough to get a good harvest, it is important to observe other conditions.

The choice of cold-resistant varieties of cucumbers should also be taken responsibly. If the temperature in the greenhouse does not meet the stated standards, then this leads to an increased risk of developing diseases in cucumbers. The most famous diseases among such a capricious culture are considered to be: powdery mildew, anthracosis and bacteriosis.

Important! Diseases that affect cucumbers can be transmitted to tomato crops. And this, in turn, can lead to the loss of crops like cucumbers and tomatoes.

Well-known agronomists were able to develop many varieties of cucumbers that sustainably tolerate diseases and are suitable for growing in open ground conditions:

• "Masha";
• "Benefit";
• "German F1";
• "Boy-with-finger";
• "Sister Alyonushka".
• "Goosebump";
• "Crane";
• "Natalie".

By choosing one of the above varieties that are resistant to cold and diseases, you don’t have to worry about creating special specific microclimate conditions. Such hybrid varieties stably tolerate ventilation and drafts, which are important for tomato pollination.

Matching conditions

Professionals identify special conditions for a favorable neighborhood of tomatoes and cucumbers:

• Cucumber lashes should not create a shadow for tomatoes;
• The ideal place for growing tomatoes is at the entrance to the greenhouse. It is there that ventilation is much more intense, which in turn reduces the level of humidity and the risk of diseases is less;
• It is worth paying attention to varieties that are resistant to phytophthora;
• It is important not to forget about additional pollination. To do this, lightly shake the flowering plants;
• Cucumbers should be planted at the end of the greenhouse. It is there that there are no drafts, which lead to a decrease in the level of humidity.

Option #1 - Film Separation

It is worth starting by separating the beds from each other using a film. The film must be stretched from the ground to the roof of the greenhouse. This method will help create a special microclimate for each crop. The only condition is that it is necessary to take into account that in that part of the greenhouse where tomatoes grow, a ventilation system should be provided. The entrance to the greenhouse zones should be separate from each end. In addition to air fencing, it is also necessary to protect the soil. It is important to leave a distance between the beds of cucumbers and tomatoes. If it suddenly turns out that the beds of tomatoes and cucumbers are too close, then you should use a metal sheet for the fence. This will allow, with abundant watering of cucumbers, not to create unfavorable conditions for tomatoes.

Option #2 - Seperate Boarding

There is an option without using a film. To use this method, it is necessary to correctly distinguish between beds with cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes.

The ideal option would be a competent division of the territory:

• Pepper should highlight the south side of the greenhouse. This is due to the fact that such a culture is thermophilic;
• Tomato bushes will grow favorably in the center of the greenhouse, as this part is well ventilated. In addition, places near doors, windows may come up;
• Cucumbers should be planted from the north, as the moisture from the plant evaporates much more slowly. The corners of the greenhouse protected from drafts are not bad for growing cucumbers.

Soil preparation and top dressing

Humus, peat, sawdust, sand must be enriched with a teaspoon of sodium nitrate or urea, and add 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and magnesia, add 3 tablespoons of double superphosphate and 500 grams of wood ash. Next, top dressing is scattered in the selected area and the soil is dug up.

Advice! Cucumbers should be fed every decade with saltpeter in a proportion of 20 grams per bucket of water.

Tomatoes also need to be fed every ten days:

• Option 1: dissolve 0.5 liters of liquid mullein + a tablespoon of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water. Under each bush, approximately 1 liter of solution is needed;
• Option 2: dissolve a teaspoon of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water, as well as a tablespoon of complete fertilizer (fertilize in a ratio of 5 liters per sq.m);
• Option 3: in 10 liters of water you need to dissolve a couple of tablespoons of wood ash and a tablespoon of superphosphate (fertilize in a ratio of 6 liters per sq.m).

Plants on which tomatoes have already formed must be fertilized with a solution of two tablespoons of superphosphate and one spoon of liquid sodium humate (5 l / sq. M). This type of fertilizer will speed up the ripening of fruits.

Caring for co-crops

Cucumber care

Cucumbers are moisture-loving plants that require plentiful and frequent irrigation with warm water. Settled water is ideal for irrigation. The use of a leaf sprayer is recommended. The optimum humidity in the greenhouse is -85%. Subject to these rules, the yield of cucumbers will be high.

For uniform plant growth and the appearance of ovaries, the temperature should be at least 22 and not exceed 28 degrees. Cucumbers do not tolerate ventilation and natural drafts. Do not forget about the regular feeding of seedlings.

Until the cucumber fruits appeared, water the seedlings often, but not abundantly. As a result of this, female flowers will be formed, which will allow you to harvest a good harvest. After the fruits have appeared, it is necessary to increase watering.

Tomato care

You need to grow tomatoes in polycarbonate structures.

• The size of the correct beds should be 90 cm wide and 40 cm high. The passage between the seedlings is ideally left at about 60 cm. The passage between the bushes must be mandatory for comfortable growth and ripening of fruits.
• Seedlings, the height of which does not exceed 30 cm, should be placed vertically in the ground.
• Add soil to the hole should be added two weeks after the seedlings take root.
• The first two weeks should refrain from abundant watering.
• After the stem is pulled out, it must be tied to the trellis. The most optimal is the ovary of seven brushes with inflorescences. The resulting extra stepchildren need to be cut off.

Watch the video!How to water tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse

Hydrogel - water substitute

Hydrogel is a lifesaver for many lovers of co-growing tomatoes and cucumbers. This type of adsorbent ideally solves the problem of waterlogging of air and soil. Hydrogel crystals almost instantly absorb excess water during irrigation. And they pass it on to the roots of moisture-loving seedlings.

Since the hydrogel absorbs water, intensive evaporation of moisture does not occur into the air during irrigation, and, consequently, the humidity in the greenhouse does not increase. The adsorbent does not lead to a decrease in the level of immunity in tomatoes, but rather enriches cucumbers with liquid. Thus, it is comfortable for two crops to grow side by side at the same time.

How to mark hydrogel? During the planting of cucumber seedlings, 0.5 cups of hydrogel are introduced into the hole, then it is watered abundantly and the plant needs to be dug.

Hydrogel is ideal not only for absorbing water, but also mineral fertilizers dissolved in them. If the granules are soaked in a fertilizer solution before the first use, then you can not worry about plant nutrition for a long time.

Mulch to retain moisture

If it so happened that cucumbers are already planted in a greenhouse without hydrogel, then it is recommended to use mulching. This method will help retain moisture at the roots of the plant and the evaporation process will decrease.

Rules for using mulch:

• Prepare cut grass or weeds.
• After the shoots of cucumbers appear, cover the soil around the shoots with a layer of mulch (about 10 centimeters).
• Add a constant layer of mulch as it settles.

Mulching will reduce the amount of watering. In addition, a layer of mulch gives off the warmth that cucumbers love so much. Evaporation of moisture will occur under the mulch. The bottom layer of mulch, when gradually decomposed, releases heat and nutritious organic fertilizers, which are necessary for the growth of a vegetable crop. .

Conclusion

Cucumbers and tomatoes require absolutely opposite conditions for the growth and ripening of fruits. The joint cultivation of these two crops is difficult, but possible. The main rule is to follow the planting scheme and create conditions for the comfortable development of plants. There are many photos and videos on the Internet that allow you to understand in more detail the technology of growing tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse.

Watch the video!Tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse

The possibilities of most gardeners are significantly limited by the small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plots and the presence of only one greenhouse on them, which you want to use to the maximum. Many gardeners are wondering if it is possible to plant tomatoes and cucumbers together in the same greenhouse: how harmful is such a “neighborhood” and will joint cultivation benefit these crops?

Expediency of joint landing

By creating ideal conditions for the growth of a tomato, you will stop the development of cucumbers, and vice versa. So what are the needs of these crops, and how can the atmosphere in the greenhouse be optimized so that they can grow side by side?

Cucumber needs

Cucumbers are very moisture-loving plants that require frequent and plentiful watering with warm settled water, combined with leaf spraying. The humidity in the greenhouse should be at least 85% - only then this capricious culture will thank you with a generous harvest.

What else do cucumbers need in a greenhouse? The optimum temperature for the development of plants and the formation of ovaries is from 22 to 28 degrees, they do not like drafts and frequent ventilation. In addition, the culture requires regular nitrogen fertilization.

So, cucumbers need constant dampness and the absence of drafts, what do tomatoes need?

Needs of tomatoes

Tomatoes need diametrically opposite conditions: dampness and lack of regular ventilation will lead to the development of late blight, damage by brown spot, gray rot and powdery mildew, which is dangerous for tomatoes.

Tomatoes are rarely watered - once a week is enough - but abundantly, while it is important to supply water under the root so that it goes directly into the ground and does not evaporate into the air. Tomatoes do not like heat - at temperatures above 25 degrees, they noticeably slow down fruiting, which is why the greenhouse needs to be left open during the day and drafts should be arranged using the vents at the other end of the greenhouse.

Tomatoes do not need nitrogen fertilizers; for their normal development, other top dressings are required - with a content of potassium and phosphorus.

Planting tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse leads to a rather problematic situation: trying to meet the needs of both crops, you thereby destroy them or reduce yields. Dampness and high humidity in the greenhouse lead to a decrease in the immunity of tomatoes and stop their growth. In such conditions, tomatoes are almost always affected by phytophthora. In addition, the pollen becomes wet, the inflorescences are not pollinated, which means that new ovaries will not appear.

If you strive to create favorable conditions for tomatoes, this will lead to a decrease in the yield of cucumbers. Dry air, lack of constant watering, frequent ventilation and drafts cause not only a slowdown in the growth of lashes, but can also completely destroy the plant.

How to find a compromise if there is no way to plant tomatoes and cucumbers in different greenhouses? It is still possible to grow these crops together, and there are several ways to do this.

Selection of varieties for combined plantings

To successfully grow tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, you should carefully choose the seed.

For joint planting, you should select such tomatoes that are resistant to late blight and are not afraid of high humidity:

• "Oak";
• "Oakwood";
• "De Barao Black";
• "Dwarf";
• "Lark";
• "Tsar Peter";
• "New Year";
• "Snowstorm";
• Soyuz 8;
• "La la fa."

These agronomist-bred and created hybrid varieties have strong immunity and are resistant to late blight and other diseases that tomatoes are exposed to due to conditions of high humidity. Of course, the selection of such seeds will not completely eliminate the problems associated with the joint cultivation of different crops, but you will have a chance to save all the plants and get a harvest.

In addition to buying tomato seeds protected from phytophthora, you should also take care of choosing cool-resistant varieties of cucumbers. Insufficient air temperature can cause a whole list of specific diseases in this capricious culture - rot, powdery mildew, bacteriosis and anthracosis.

It is dangerous that these diseases can be transmitted to tomatoes, then, trying to create comfortable conditions for tomatoes, you can lose all the plants in the greenhouse and your future crop.

Agronomists have bred a lot of varieties of cucumbers that are resistant to diseases and suitable for growing in open ground:

• "Benefit";
• "Crane";
• "Princess";
• "Leandro";
• "Boy-with-finger";
• "Masha";
• "Goosebump";
• "Natalie";
• "Pasadena";
• "Diva";
• "Nightingale";
• "Sister Alyonushka".

Choosing such varieties and hybrids of cucumbers that are resistant to coolness and diseases, you can not worry about creating a specific microclimate for plants - they will be able to optimally transfer the ventilation of the greenhouse necessary for the normal development and pollination of tomatoes.

How to plant?

For optimal growth and development of neighboring crops, it is important not only to choose the seed, but also to plant the plants correctly. The location of cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse requires taking into account the characteristics of the microclimate inside the greenhouse.

Separation

Gardeners most often use the crop separation technique when planting cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse. Their physical differentiation in the area of ​​​​the greenhouse helps to avoid overflow of tomatoes and protects the lashes from drafts.

As a rule, all greenhouses are installed in the west-east direction. This orientation ensures optimal illumination of all crops from the south side.

Depending on the width of the greenhouse, 2-3 longitudinal beds are arranged in it:

1. Cucumbers are planted in the northern garden. Here they will not be dried out by the sun, and water during irrigation will not evaporate so intensively into the air.
2. Tomatoes are planted in the central garden. There will be fresh air necessary for their comfort and pollination during ventilation.
3. In the southern garden, it is preferable to grow greens or eggplant. It will be too hot for tomatoes and too dry for cucumbers.

Since the soil in the greenhouse is a single whole, before planting seedlings and seed, care should be taken to delineate the soil. Sheets of roofing material or iron are dug in between future beds - such a measure will protect the tomatoes from waterlogging with frequent watering of cucumbers and will allow you to apply fertilizers intended for each crop.

Zoning

Zoning is perhaps the most effective and optimal way to organize the space inside the greenhouse when growing different crops. This technique allows you to maintain the microclimate necessary for tomatoes and cucumbers in each part of the greenhouse.

The greenhouse is usually zoned across, dividing it into two functional parts.

You can make a partition in two ways:

1. capital method. A partition is arranged inside the greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate. The entrance to this compartment can be made both in the created "wall" and on the other side of the greenhouse.
2. Fast way. The space inside the greenhouse can be demarcated by hanging a curtain from a double-folded dense film on a stretched twine or rod.

When zoning the space of a greenhouse, one should not forget about the division of the soil: dig into the ground at the border of crops a sheet of roofing material, iron, or a piece of polycarbonate of a suitable size. It is recommended to put a water tank in the "cucumber compartment" - it will not only serve for irrigation, but also additionally humidify the air in the separated zone.

Hydrogel

When growing tomatoes and cucumbers together, hydrogel becomes a real salvation for many gardeners.

A modern adsorbent perfectly eliminates the problem of waterlogged soil and air - the crystals almost instantly absorb water during irrigation and give it to the roots of moisture-loving plants as needed.

Since the water is absorbed by the hydrogel, during irrigation there is no intensive evaporation of moisture into the air and the humidity in the greenhouse does not increase. Thus, the use of an adsorbent does not reduce the immunity of a tomato, and at the same time provides cucumbers with the necessary liquid - both neighboring crops are comfortable.

When planting seedlings of cucumbers, it is enough to add about 0.5 cups of the finished hydrogel into the hole, pour it abundantly and then dig the plant in swollen granules. Most often, seeds are sown in a greenhouse - in this case, an organized hole with a sorbent is sprinkled with 5 cm of soil, and the prepared material is already sown in the ground.

The hydrogel is convenient in that it absorbs not only water, but also mineral fertilizers dissolved in it. If you soak the granules before the first use in a weak top dressing solution, you can not worry about feeding cucumbers for a long time.

Mulch

If you have already sown cucumbers in the greenhouse and it was not possible to introduce the hydrogel into the soil on time, you can use the mulching method. This method also contributes to the retention of moisture at the roots of plants and prevents its excessive evaporation.

How to properly use mulch:

1. Prepare cut grass or weeds.
2. When shoots sprout and cucumbers release a real leaf, the soil around them is covered with a thick (8-10 cm) layer of mulch.
3. As the layer settles, it should be raised to the previous values ​​of 10 cm.

Mulching allows you to reduce the number of waterings of moisture-loving plants, in addition, the gradually decomposing bottom layer releases heat, which cucumbers love so much, and nutritious organic fertilizers, which are important for the development of any crop. Moisture from the soil will not evaporate into the air of the greenhouse, but under dense mulch, creating a microclimate that is comfortable for each plant.

Joint cultivation of cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse is undesirable, but still possible. The main thing is to separate cultures and create for each of them the most comfortable conditions for development and fruiting.

We devote a lot of time and energy to caring for plants so that they please us with their harvest or beauty (if these are ornamental plants). We try to take into account all their whims and needs, but sometimes we have to grow them in not the best conditions. So, it was said many times that cucumbers and tomatoes need different greenhouses. But what if two greenhouses simply cannot be placed on your site? We'll have to somehow reconcile these two vegetables and teach them to live together in the same greenhouse (if it's real). So is it possible to plant tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse or still not?

The fact is that each of these plants has its own requirements for humidity, lighting and ventilation, temperature and watering, and even fertilizers.

The main features of growing cucumbers

• Cucumbers are very moisture-loving plants.

• Watering cucumbers in a greenhouse should be frequent and plentiful, not forgetting to spray the leaves. The optimum air humidity should be between 85% and 90%.
• Water for watering cucumbers should be warm and, if possible, settled.
• Cucumbers are not very fond of, and they do not really need airing.
• The optimum temperature for growing this vegetable is +200С+220С for seedlings and +250С+280С since the formation of the first ovaries.
• Cucumbers are very responsive to fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. What do cucumbers need? They need a sufficient amount of moisture, which is why they are often and quite plentifully watered. In addition, this vegetable needs leaf spraying. That is, they love moisture, moist air and soil.

  Characteristic features of cultivation

  tomatoes in greenhouses

1. Watering tomatoes is carried out rarely, but quite plentifully. At the same time, trying to water "under the root."
2. The most favorable temperature for fruiting tomatoes is the temperature +220С+250С.
3. Tomatoes love that the humidity of both air and soil is not very high. The most favorable for them is the humidity of the air within 45% -60% . If the air humidity exceeds these values, then the pollination of flowers is worse, and the quantity and quality of the crop is significantly reduced.
4. For normal growth and development of tomatoes, frequent and constant airing is necessary.
5. Tomatoes are responsive to the application of phosphorus and potash fertilizers to the soil, nitrogenous fertilizers are not as important for them as for cucumbers.

   And what about tomatoes? They don't like this kind of humidity. For tomatoes, the ideal is not 90%, as for cucumbers, but only 45-50%. It will be higher - pollination will worsen, the harvest will be worse. And this is not to mention late blight, gray rot and powdery mildew, which will immediately appear with an increase in humidity.

Important: an increase in air humidity in the greenhouse over 60% can lead to the development of such tomato diseases as late blight, brown spot, powdery mildew and gray rot.

Important: co-grown vegetables can be affected by common pests such as mites and whiteflies. In addition, both tomato and cucumber mosaic viruses can be transferred from diseased plants to healthy ones through hands or untreated tools, as well as by insects such as thrips, aphids, cicadas and whiteflies.

Having considered the basic requirements for growing conditions for cucumbers and tomatoes, it becomes clear that growing tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse quite problematic. Nevertheless, it is still possible to combine the incompatible, there are several options for solving this problem.

Growing tomatoes and cucumbers together

Cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse The simplest and most affordable solution to the problem when grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse, will be simple physical separation of cultures.

Sharing Cultures

Under the physical separation of such vegetable crops as cucumbers and tomatoes is meant the creation of the microclimate necessary for each culture. To do this, many gardeners allocate a certain part of the greenhouse for tomatoes, and fence it off from the "cucumber" part with a film or oilcloth. Thanks to this, it will be possible to control the humidity of the air when growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse.

Video: Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse

Tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse

In order to control soil moisture and fertilizer application for different crops, it is also necessary to divide the soil surface. So, between tomatoes and cucumbers, you can dig in sheets of old roofing material or iron, which will prevent excessive waterlogging of the soil in the “tomato” part of the greenhouse, and will allow you to give the necessary amount of water to cucumbers.

When allocating one or another part of the greenhouse for tomatoes, it should be remembered that they are very fond of ventilation. Because of this, the more vents or opening segments will be in their "compartment", the better.

So, in order to separate tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse, you need:

1. From the end sides, make separate entrances to the "rooms" of each culture.
2. In the "tomato" compartment, provide a larger number of vents for ventilation.
3. Create a barrier between tomatoes and cucumbers at soil level so that excess moisture from cucumbers does not flow to the tomatoes.
4. Hang a transparent film from the floor to the top of the greenhouse in order to create the optimal microclimate for each crop.

If it is supposed plant tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, then you can plant them on opposite ridges. In this case, there will be no problems with soil moisture, and the suspended film will help to withstand the air humidity required for each of the crops.

Another division option

A number of sources suggest the following method physical separation of cultures: in a greenhouse located from west to east and having two doors on opposite sides, three beds are formed:

• northern, the coolest and most damp - for cucumbers;
• central, most ventilated - for tomatoes;
• southern, the most sunny and hot - for peppers.

  Growing three crops in one greenhouse

Which "neighbor" is better for cucumbers?

In the event that, in addition to the greenhouse, you also have a greenhouse on the site, then it may be better to plant peppers and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, and leave the greenhouse for tomatoes and eggplants.

The fact is that, like cucumbers, peppers love high humidity and air temperature, and prefer not to “ventilate” often. Like cucumbers, peppers "like" high humidity - 70%-80% , and high soil moisture, about 60%, and top dressing with nitrogenous fertilizers, although it also needs phosphorus and potash.

Thus, if you do not have the opportunity to "breed" tomatoes and cucumbers in different greenhouses and greenhouses, then you can grow them in one. It is only important to separate them among themselves so that each vegetable crop can grow and develop in the conditions necessary for it.

If there is a greenhouse and a greenhouse on the site, then it is better to grow tomatoes and eggplants or watermelons in the greenhouse, and plant peppers and cucumbers in the greenhouse. That is, plants with similar needs are grouped into separate groups.

Video: Joint cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse

Joint cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse. Master gardener.

Cucumbers with tomatoes are frequent neighbors in fresh salads and preparations for the winter, and they go well with each other. For most gardeners, the question of the joint cultivation of two different crops in one greenhouse is quite acute, how to get a good harvest of both crops in the presence of one greenhouse.

Is it possible to plant tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse:

Features of growing cucumbers in greenhouses

Requirements for growing cucumbers:

• This culture is very fond of moisture;
• Cucumbers need frequent and abundant watering, and you also need to spray the leaves;

• Water the cucumbers with warm, preferably settled, water;
• Vegetables do not need frequent ventilation, they are also afraid of drafts;
• The optimal temperature regime is + 20- + 22 degrees Celsius for seedlings, and + 25- + 28 degrees as soon as the first ovaries are formed;
• Cucumbers need to be fed fertilizers containing nitrogen.

Features of growing tomatoes in greenhouses

Requirements for growing tomatoes:

• Not high humidity of air and soil is optimal for tomatoes. Favorable humidity for tomatoes is from 45% to 60%. If the humidity is higher than these values, the flowers are poorly pollinated, there is a decrease in the quantity and quality of the crop;
• Tomatoes do not need to be watered often, but watering should be plentiful;

REFERENCE: Watering is carried out under the root of the bush.

• In order for tomatoes to bear fruit well, it is necessary to maintain the optimal temperature regime - from +22 to +25 degrees Celsius;
• Often and regularly ventilate the greenhouse so that the tomatoes grow and develop normally;
• Tomatoes need to be fed with fertilizers that contain phosphorus and potassium.

We grow together: how to plant?

When growing these two crops together, some problems may arise:

• Humidity exceeding 60% provokes the development of diseases in tomatoes: late blight, brown spot, powdery mildew and gray rot;
• Vegetable crops grown together are affected by the same pests: mites and whiteflies;
• Tomato and cucumber mosaic can be transferred from an infected plant to an uninfected plant through hands or untreated tools.

2 options for separation: joint cultivation of cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse

The simplest and most affordable solution to the problem of growing two crops together in the same greenhouse is to physically separate the crops.

First option

The physical separation of cucumbers and tomatoes is the organization of the microclimate that is necessary for each crop.

How to create a microclimate:

• Most gardeners separate a certain area for tomatoes using a film or oilcloth;
• To control soil moisture and fertilizers applied to various vegetable crops, separation of the earth's surface is also required. Sheets of old roofing material or iron are dug between the vegetables, they will not allow the soil to become excessively waterlogged in the tomato zone, and provide the cucumbers with the necessary amount of water;

• When dividing into zones, it must be taken into account that tomatoes need frequent ventilation. Therefore, the area for tomatoes should be located next to the windows;
• The ends of the greenhouse should have separate entrances to the vegetable crop zones.

Double greenhouse second option

There is also another way to separate different cultures. In a greenhouse, located from west to east, with two two doors on different sides, you need to form two beds:

• For cucumbers, create a bed in the northern part, which is cooler and damper;
• For tomato beds, the central part, which is well ventilated, is perfect.

Best compatibility: what is better to plant with cucumbers?

If there is a greenhouse on the plot, in addition to the greenhouse, it is in it that it is best to plant cucumbers together with pepper, and tomatoes and eggplants in the greenhouse. Peppers, like cucumbers, need high humidity and air temperature. These cultures do not need frequent ventilation. For cucumbers and peppers, the optimum air humidity is 70-80% and soil moisture is 60%. They also respond well to fertilizing with fertilizers containing nitrogen.

REFERENCE: If there is no possibility of separate cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers, then they are grown in the same greenhouse. It is only necessary to carry out a division into zones in order to create for each culture the conditions necessary for it for normal growth and development.

Cucumbers and tomatoes have different growing conditions: lighting and ventilation, soil and air moisture, fertilizers applied, the amount and frequency of watering. When growing tomatoes and cucumbers together in the same greenhouse, in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary for each crop to create the recommended conditions. If there is a greenhouse and a greenhouse, it is better to plant tomatoes and eggplants in a greenhouse, and grow peppers and cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Joint cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse:

The popularity of growing various crops indoors is growing. Many install polycarbonate greenhouses on the site, in which various crops are planted from early spring. Many gardeners are concerned about the question: “Is it possible to plant cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse?” The answer to this question is ambiguous, as opinions are divided. Some are categorically against growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same space. Others find alternatives.

Cucumbers and tomatoes are completely different crops that need different growing conditions. The growth and development of plants is affected by the level of illumination, the frequency and correctness of watering, air humidity and the amount of fertilizer applied to the soil. Considering that tomatoes and cucumbers need different greenhouse conditions, it is possible to grow them together, although this will cause some trouble.

To properly equip a greenhouse for growing two different crops there, you need to figure out what conditions you need to create for each plant.

When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, you need to consider that this crop loves water and moisture very much. Frequent watering will allow you to grow a high-quality and large crop. But this culture does not need airing. As a top dressing, cucumbers “love” nitrogen.

What do tomatoes need?

• Tomatoes do not like too humid air.
• Plants need to be watered abundantly, but not very often.
• In order for plants to grow and develop normally, they need abundant ventilation.
• Plants need to be fertilized with potassium and phosphorus. They are less demanding on the presence of nitrogen in the soil.
• Too wet soil and air can cause diseases that will kill tomatoes. Plants can die from late blight, brown spot, powdery mildew and gray rot.

Both cucumbers and tomatoes can be killed by mites, aphids, cicadas, or whiteflies. It is important to treat the plants separately, as various infections can be transferred by hand from one crop to another. The problem of growing different crops in a greenhouse is obvious.

How to place cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse

In order for cultures to get along together, they must be separated. To do this, each of the cultures needs to create the right microclimate for it. To do this, experienced gardeners usually physically separate the plants by dividing the greenhouse into two parts and enclosing the areas with film or other material.

It is important to pay attention to the separation of the soil, as cucumbers like wetter soil, and tomatoes drier.

You can divide the soil with roofing felt or iron plates, which will prevent too much soil moisture in the half where the tomatoes grow. You also need to pay attention to in which part of the greenhouse the windows are located. The more ventilated part of the greenhouse should be taken under the tomatoes.

How to separate cultures:

• At the end of each side, equip a separate entrance to each culture.
• Where tomatoes grow, there should be many vents so that you can arrange plentiful ventilation.
• At soil level, it is important to separate the plants with a partition: this way, the tomatoes will be protected from the moisture that cucumbers need.
• To create an optimal microclimate, you need a film that completely separates the tomatoes from the cucumbers.

Plants can be grown in beds opposite each other. Also in the greenhouse, you can equip beds for the successful cultivation of three crops. Together you can plant tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants. The north side is suitable for cucumbers, the central one for tomatoes, the south one for peppers.

Cucumbers and tomatoes in one polycarbonate greenhouse

Many manuals for growing different crops in a greenhouse say that it is almost impossible to grow different crops together. However, in practice, many gardeners do this and quite successfully. If tomatoes do not tolerate air humidity, then experienced gardeners use some tricks to help them.

One trick allows you to monitor the level of humidity, which is important for both tomatoes and cucumbers. The use of hydrogel allows you to reduce the amount of watering. With it, moisture in the soil can be retained for a long period.

How to use hydrogel:

• A crumb of hydrogel is poured with water overnight.
• Usually, the hydrogel is applied to the hole when planting seedlings of cucumbers.
• Some dissolve the hydrogel into a solution based on mineral or organic fertilizers.

Watering can be made less frequent by mulching. To do this, after planting cucumbers, the soil is covered with mowed grass, which will store moisture for some time. Mulching helps retain moisture while preventing it from spreading to the tomatoes.

Greenhouse temperature for cucumbers and tomatoes

Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse seems to be very controversial. These cultures have a different origin and each has its own microclimate in which they will successfully grow and develop. Plants love different temperature conditions, which must be taken into account when deciding to grow them in a single closed ground.

The optimum air temperature for active growth and development of cucumbers is from 26 to 28 degrees, for tomatoes - from 24 to 25.

At the same time, both cultures do not like night colds. Therefore, at night the temperature in the greenhouse should not fall below 19 degrees. It is important not to allow the temperature to rise to 30 degrees, as the tomatoes can simply die, because all their color will fall off.

What do cucumbers need:

• They don't need ventilation. They grow well at a temperature of 21 to 22 degrees, if it is a seedling, and from 25 to 28 - if it is an adult plant.
• Tomatoes need frequent and constant airing. For active growth, tomatoes need a constant temperature of 22 to 25 degrees.

Tomatoes cannot stand the lack of ventilation, because without it their flowers will not be pollinated. Some gardeners who care about cucumbers do not ventilate the greenhouses enough. At the same time, they use the method of shaking pollen from bushes in order to artificially pollinate them. The result of such pollination is not very productive.

Greenhouses of the Krasnodar Territory: growing cucumbers and tomatoes

The compatibility of cucumbers and tomatoes is doubtful, but many successfully cope with growing them in the same greenhouse. A common greenhouse is not a sentence if you know how to properly equip it. To do this, you need to actively water the cucumbers, but so that the moisture is not transferred to the tomatoes.

Fertilizing crops should also take place in different ways - cucumbers need nitrogen, and tomatoes need potassium and phosphorus.

In order to increase the residence time of moisture in the soil, cucumber seeds can be planted in a hole with hydrogel granules. For planting in a greenhouse, you need to choose the best varieties that are resistant to infections and insect attacks. So that abundant watering of cucumbers does not disturb the microclimate of tomatoes, they must be fenced off from each other with a film.

What to look for:

• Properly apply fertilizer;
• Pay attention to the successful choice of variety;
• Successfully arrange a joint stay;
• Place cucumbers and tomatoes in separate beds.

Crop care should be complete, providing all the needs of both cucumbers and tomatoes. When planting seedlings of both crops, you need to be sure that the winter preparation of the greenhouse for planting was done correctly. Before winter, all soil must be updated or treated with special compounds. Some people fumigate greenhouses, and some use biological compounds that do not harm the soil. However, after growing cucumbers and tomatoes, it is better to replace the topsoil altogether.

We plant cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse (video)

A general recommendation for those who decide to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse is to place the plants on different beds and fence them off. Tomatoes should be planted closer to the windows, so that abundant and frequent ventilation does not affect cucumbers. Planting cucumbers should be done in soil with hydrogel - then moisture will be stored only in the soil in which cucumbers grow. Sometimes a business involves growing several crops at once in a greenhouse. In this case, it is very important to ensure that each crop has the right conditions.

Can tomatoes and cucumbers grow in the same greenhouse? Do I need to block it, dividing it into zones, or can I just plant seedlings of tomatoes and cucumbers on different beds? This question worries many gardeners on the eve of the new summer season. Indeed, on 6 acres it is difficult to place more than one greenhouse of a standard size. What to do?

I use my greenhouse, as they say, to its fullest. In one greenhouse I grow cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, parsley, dill, onions, radishes, lettuce, basils, marjoram. In addition, in it I grow seedlings of cabbage, beets, annual flowers, and even plant early carrots and beets in it.

Of course, I do not sow and plant all this at the same time, there is a kind of conveyor. It is best to make compact plantings so that when the main plants have grown and need more space, the earlier crops will already be used in one way or another. In addition, when planting a greenhouse tightly, one must take into account.

Today I’ll tell you about how tomatoes and cucumbers get along in my greenhouse (arched 3 m wide and almost 6 m long).

Tomatoes and cucumbers - in the same greenhouse

All the books talk about how cucumbers need moist air and moist soil, while tomatoes need dry air and moderately moist soil. I live in the Northwest, and here the air humidity is almost always 70-80%, so tomatoes have to put up with it, and gardeners have to take some tricks to help them.

In addition, the books state that cucumbers are afraid of drafts, they de cause stem rot disease. However, for cucumbers, it turns out that drafts are not so terrible as stagnant air. It is he who causes the disease of rot. Therefore, arrange cross-ventilation of greenhouses, as tomatoes require, and do not worry about cucumbers.

Cucumbers in the greenhouse: instead of frequent watering - hydrogel

Now about watering cucumbers. If you water them daily, the moisture from the soil will evaporate intensively, increasing the already high humidity in the greenhouse. But this can be avoided by reducing the amount of watering. This helps me hydrogel, which I have been using every year for almost 10 years.

This is a polymer crumb, which, when soaked in water, swells 300 times! Having swollen, it retains moisture in itself, preventing it from evaporating from the surface of the soil and going deeper into it, and therefore moisture goes exclusively to the roots, which suck it out as needed. After all, it is well known that during irrigation, plants manage to capture only 25% of the water poured under them, and the rest goes down or evaporates from the soil surface. That is, when watering, we waste three-quarters of time and effort. Hydrogel, as a true polymeric material, decomposes into carbon dioxide and water during oxidation, therefore, not only does it not harm the soil, but, on the contrary, is very useful.

How to use hydrogel - and not only in the greenhouse? In the evening, fill the crumb with water about 300 times more than the mass of the crumb itself. So, for 3 liters of water you will need only 10 g (usually one sachet) of hydrogel. When planting under each plant, you will need about half a glass of ready-made gel (that is, 100 ml), so this bag will be enough for you to plant 30 plants.

If you grow seedlings of cucumbers, when planting them in a greenhouse, add half a glass of hydrogel directly into the hole and plant cucumber seedlings (or any other seedlings) on it. If you do not grow seedlings of cucumbers, and this is reasonable, then after you put the hydrogel into the hole, sprinkle it with 4-5 cm of soil on top and then sow the seeds. The fact is that if you put the seeds directly into the hydrogel, it will be tantamount to putting them in water for 5-7 days - they can simply rot or suffocate due to lack of air.

The hydrogel can be dissolved not in water, but in a weak solution of mineral or organic fertilizer. In this case, at the same time, you will get rid of one more job - feeding cucumbers. As an organic fertilizer (and at the same time improving the soil), I use a joint solution of Fitosporin and Gumi, and as a mineral fertilizer, I use either the organo-mineral fertilizer (OMU) of the Buysky Mineral Fertilizer Plant, or the powder fraction of the unique AVA fertilizer.

Mulch for cucumbers in the greenhouse

How else can you make your work easier when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse if you couldn’t get the hydrogel? Immediately after germination, mulch (cover) the soil under the plants with cut grass or weeds weeded with a layer of 8-10 cm and regularly add this litter, because, when it dries, it settles heavily, but it is necessary that the mulch layer remains approximately the same thickness, that is, 8- 10 cm

What is happening? Moisture does not evaporate from the soil, and therefore watering will have to be done much less frequently. In addition, the constantly decomposing bottom of the mulch generates heat (and cucumber roots, like all cucurbits, love warm soil) and gives the root system fresh food.

In addition, from the top layer of organic green mass, water under cucumbers will partially evaporate into the air right under each plant and at the same time create the very humid microclimate that cucumbers love so much. But since this moisture is not enough so that it can spread throughout the greenhouse, it will not be able to harm the tomatoes growing in the neighboring garden, in which excessive air humidity contributes to late blight, and even worse, harmful brown leaf spot.

How to plant tomatoes in the same greenhouse with cucumbers

And what about the tomatoes? And do nothing. But when planting in the hole, you need to add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. As you know, it is poorly soluble in water. So let it dissolve like that, enough for a long time. In addition, I bring in a handful of feather down from an old feather pillow. What for? The fact is that feathers, down, wool, hair, horns and hooves are almost entirely made of silicon.

Sand, of course, is practically pure silicon, but unlike the above, it is very slowly processed by a small group of microorganisms - stone-eaters, and therefore silicon - sand - is practically not absorbed by plants. But down-feather and its relatives are rapidly processed by soil bacteria, so plants receive silicon all season - starting almost from the moment the seedlings are transplanted.

Silicon strengthens the walls of conducting vessels in plants. This makes them resistant to all kinds of damage, including those caused by pathogens, and the trunks and stems themselves are strong. It is interesting that even a trace of these feathers does not remain by the end of the season, microorganisms are so willing to process them, and the plants absorb the silicon they secrete.

It is not required to apply hydrogel under tomatoes, because they can generally not be watered all season, and regardless of the weather. Don't believe me - check it out. But when planting, it is necessary to first pour at least 5 liters of warm water into each hole for tall varieties or hybrids and at least 3 liters for determinant undersized ones. Immediately plant seedlings and immediately mulch the soil under the tomatoes with newspapers folded in several layers.

What does it give? Water, together with part of the mineral fertilizer, will begin to go down. And in pursuit of them down, the roots of tomatoes will also begin to grow. It is only necessary during their first transplantation not to cut off the tip of the central root, as is usually recommended by various authors.

The branching root grows in all directions in search of food and water, that is, it spreads close to the surface. Such a root system makes the plant dependent - dependent, it has to be watered often. But after all, the root system of a tomato, unlike the root system of a cucumber, is able to penetrate deep into the soil (at least 1.5 m), and there is almost always moisture there (with the exception of sandy soils, but this is a special case).

So the tomato is able to take care of itself. And for this you do not need to cut off the tip of the central root from it. We do not need the root to branch, we need it to grow down, and since the tips of the roots have a special property, say, “smell” for food and water, the central root will grow down, where the water and food rushed, and branch will also gradually be there, in the depths, and not under the very surface.

How to mulch the ground in a greenhouse under tomatoes

What does newspaper mulching do? It blocks the possibility of evaporation of moisture from the surface, thus, firstly, it retains moisture in the soil, and secondly, the air around each plant remains drier than when you mulch the soil with green organic matter. I did this experiment. When I mulched the soil with green organic matter in a humid summer, the tomatoes fell ill with late blight, but literally nearby, mulched with newspapers, no.

There is one more nuance here. The fact is that the causative agent of the fungal disease of tomato late blight lives in the soil, like most pathogens of plant diseases. Organic mulch, if it is less than 7-8 cm in layer, is not an obstacle for the spores of the fungus to germinate on the surface, from which they scatter, falling on the leaves (of course, you paid attention that phytophthora primarily affects the lower leaves). And several layers of paper, laid on the soil, block the spores of the fungus from flying out.

I have been growing tomatoes this way for many years, and even in the coldest and rainiest summer, my tomatoes do not get late blight, although I do not do any special prevention against it, except that I spill the soil well before planting with a solution of Fitosporin and Gumi. But I do this not only in the greenhouse, but also on all beds and under all plantings twice a year. In the spring, as soon as the soil allows sowing and planting, and in the fall - immediately after the harvest.

We will talk about how to grow peppers and eggplants in the same greenhouse next time.

Growing tomatoes and cucumbers

Secrets of Growing Tomatoes

When planting and growing a tomato, four basic rules should be followed.
1. Plant tomatoes where they can get the most sunlight.
2. Give each bush weekly 25 to 25 ml of moisture. After all, a tomato is 90% water.
3. Let them fully mature on the bush. The more the tomato is connected to the bush, the better it will taste. The taste and aroma of a tomato is determined by the balance of sugar and acid content in it.
4. Fertilize bushes at an early stage of development, and then stop feeding until the ovary has formed. Excess nitrogen fertilizer slows down the formation of ovaries. When the ovary has taken shape and formed, fertilizers will benefit the plants. Gardeners consider abundant flowering and the presence of varieties with a complex brush on the site to be the key to a good harvest. But often expectations are not justified, many flowers fall off without giving an ovary. The thing is that fruit formation largely depends on the quality of pollen and full pollination. To help the plant, mechanical additional pollination is used. This method is the most natural and accessible. It consists in shaking the plants by the stem or directly flowering inflorescence 2-3 times a week from 8 to 13 hours.

In addition, you should know that tomatoes stop turning red when the weather starts to get too hot. This is because the final stage of red pigment formation is inhibited when it is too hot. If unripe fruits are removed, then their shelf life increases by an average of two days, but the quality, alas, deteriorates sharply. Brown-green tomatoes are 2-3 times poorer in vitamins, sugars, amino acids; when artificially ripened, they never accumulate nutrients in the same quantities as on the mother plant.

How to grow a high yield of tomatoes

Each gardener can get 30 and even 45 kg of tomatoes per square meter in open ground conditions. The technology for growing tomato seedlings is available to most gardeners, it does not require large expenses, and the first ripe fruits can be obtained on June 20-25.

Seed preparation begins at the end of January. First, the seeds must be heated at a temperature of 55-60 ° C, then placed in a 3% solution of table salt, mix well. For sowing, only those seeds that have settled to the bottom are used, they must be washed with running water, and then placed in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) for 20 minutes. Then rinse again and dry at room temperature for one hour. After that, the seeds are soaked in a solution of micronutrient fertilizers - a quarter of a tablet per 2.5 liters of water or in an ash extract for 12 hours. Next, the seeds must be hardened - wet seeds wrapped in gauze alternately (for 12 hours) are kept at room temperature and at a temperature of minus 1-2 ° C. Hardening is carried out within 12 days. After that, the seeds are sown in boxes in the first half of February. The soil mixture should be prepared in the summer. It consists of sod land, manure humus and lowland peat - 1 bucket of each component. The mixture is seasoned with fertilizers: nitroammiphos - 100 g, double superphosphate - 200 g, potassium magnesia - 100 g and ash from burning tomato tops 1.5 liters. The mixture is saturated with nutrients in the fall, before freezing. The thawed mixture is poured into boxes with a layer of 6-8 cm and seeds are laid out in shallow holes, sprinkled with soil, moistened and covered with a film. The boxes are placed in a warm place with a constant temperature of 25-28°C.

Usually shoots appear after 3 days.

In the first 2-2.5 weeks, seedlings must be illuminated daily for 12-14 hours (200 W per 1 sq. Meter), and when mass shoots appear, the temperature must be reduced to 14-13 ° C during the week in order for the seedlings to get stronger and the root system developed better. Further, the temperature can be increased depending on the degree of illumination. Watering should be no more than twice a week. After the second true leaf is formed, the seedlings need to be picked into boxes 12 cm deep according to the 5x5 cm scheme, deepening them to the cotyledon leaves. For better survival, immediately after picking, reduce lighting and give full coverage only on the third day. Avoid direct sunlight. After the seedlings have finally taken root, you can give maximum lighting. Bring the duration of illumination up to 14 hours a day with the help of additional illumination. If at the end of March weather conditions do not allow transferring seedlings to greenhouses, it is necessary to cause an artificial growth retardation - by lowering the temperature to 10-12 ° C, reduce watering, reduce lighting and gradually reduce the temperature to 8 ° C. You can also slow down the growth of plants by picking. Each pick delays the growth of plants for a week and, in addition, the plants become resistant to adverse conditions. To remove plants from the state of conservation, it is necessary to gradually, within 3 days, increase the temperature and illumination, and after 6 days give top dressing.

Prepare a solution for feeding as follows: 30 g of ammonium nitrate, 20 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Pour 100 ml of an aqueous extract of ash there (1 cup per 1 liter of water). Prepare the ash extract 1 day before feeding. Consumption rate - 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter of boxes.

In order to grow stocky, unstretched seedlings, it is necessary to adjust the ratio of the amount of fertilizer in the soil mixture. So, when preparing the mixture before picking, it is necessary to add the same amount of superphosphate and ash as was added for the first time, while the amount of nitrogen remained at the same level, bordering on a deficiency. This is a factor in the formation of stocky, powerful seedlings. If a lack of nitrogen is noticeable by the color of the leaves, then give nitrogen in the form of foliar top dressing - 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water at the rate of 2 liters of solution per 1 sq.m of the box area. At the end of March, in the phase of 4 true leaves, the seedlings must be dived a second time, but already in a greenhouse. It must be carried out on a quiet day at an air temperature of at least +8 degrees. The soil temperature in the greenhouse by this time should be 15-18°C. Since autumn, the greenhouse has been stuffed with dry leaves for less freezing. Now they need to be taken out, disinfected with a 5% formalin solution and stuffed with manure. After burning and settling of manure, sprinkle with a layer of ash 3 mm and fill with a layer of soil mixture 15-18 cm thick.

Seedlings are planted in it according to the scheme 10x10 cm. When the seedlings in the greenhouse take root well, it is necessary to spray it with a 0.1% solution of boric acid, and feed it every other day: pour 10 liters of chicken manure infusion, 100 g of extract into a 12-liter bucket from ash, 2.5 g of potassium permanganate, 1.5 g of boric acid. Before feeding the plants, water - 5 liters per 1 sq.m with a water temperature of 18 ° C. Top dressing should be carried out along the aisles at the rate of 100 ml of solution for each plant. Before planting seedlings in the ground, it is necessary to regulate the temperature and humidity of the soil. During cold periods, the air temperature can drop significantly. In this case, it is necessary to securely cover the greenhouse with kraft paper, mats. Seedlings are planted in open ground at the end of April, when buds form on the first cyst. If the weather does not allow, then it is necessary to wait, but in the morning sprinkle with a solution of boric acid (10 g per 10 liters of water) to prevent the buds from falling off.

Prepare the soil before planting in advance: loosen with an iron rake and cover with a dark film. This will provoke the growth of weeds, when they start to grow, they will be easily destroyed by repeated harrowing. On the eve of this operation, it is necessary to additionally apply mineral fertilizers: nitroammophos - 30 g, ammonium sulfate - 20 g, potassium magnesia - 20 g, potassium sulfate - 20 g per 1 sq.m. Then dig the site without turning the seam to a depth of 30 cm.

The planting pattern of the "White filling" variety: between rows located from south to north - 35 cm, in a row between the centers of the holes - 30 cm. There are 4 rows on each bed, the width of the passage between the beds is 50 cm. On one hundred square meters (100 sq. .m.) accommodates 1000 plants. Holes are dug 30 cm deep. Half a liter of a fertilizer mixture is poured into each well, consisting of 1 bucket of sifted humus, half a liter of ash from burning tops of tomatoes and potatoes, half a glass of double superphosphate, half a glass of nitroammophos, 30-40 g of potassium magnesia . This mixture must be prepared in advance, mix thoroughly.

In addition to the fertilizer mixture, pour half a liter of chicken manure solution and 2 liters of water. When the water is absorbed, mix the soil with fertilizer. Plant seedlings with a large clod of earth in a doughy mass. Deepen the cotyledon leaves. After 1 hour, water - 1 liter of water per plant. When the bed of four rows is planted, place thick wire arches (diameter 8-10 mm) 60 cm apart. Fasten the arcs with a cord in 4 rows (above each row). Just in case of bad weather, prepare a double layer of polyethylene film with a kraft paper between them (3 layers).

Planting seedlings in a permanent place is best done in cloudy, wet weather. If the weather is sunny, then early in the morning or in the evening. As soon as the plants take root in a new place, at the beginning of flowering, it is necessary to spray again with a 0.1% solution of boric acid.

If prolonged rains fall in the flowering phase, then it is better to cover the beds with arcs with a film.

All plants must be formed into one stem with three inflorescences. Remove unnecessary stepchildren until the crop is formed on the last inflorescence, then mint - cut off the top. 20-30 days before fruit ripening, root dressing through mulching layers: add half a liter of ash and a glass of double superphosphate to each bucket of humus. The predominance of phosphorus and potassium over nitrogen in the soil accelerates the ripening of fruits. Simultaneously with the removal of stepchildren, it is necessary to tie the ribbons to the arcs and the cord with which the arcs are connected to each other. This method eliminates the garter to the peg and reduces the load on the plants.

Plants fruiting in June and July almost always go away from phytophthora. As a preventive measure, you can spray the plants with an infusion of garlic: insist 200 g of crushed cloves in 1 bucket of water, tightly closing it. Spray every 10-15 days from the last days of July.

It is necessary to especially note such a high-yielding variety as "De Barao". The shape of the fruit resembles a chicken egg, high taste. Taken in autumn, they can be stored until January. An exceptional feature of the variety is a high yield per unit area (up to 45 kg per 1 sq.m.), cold resistance, low susceptibility to diseases, including late blight.

Variety De Barao grows well and bears fruit in apartment conditions. Vegetable growers, who have been testing many varieties of tomatoes for decades, have come to the conclusion that De Barao is the best variety of tomatoes. Growing the De Barao variety has its own characteristics. It requires a more nutritious potting mix, both for seedlings and for potting. The mixture for seedlings consists of two parts of horse manure humus and one part of sod land. To this mass add 10% sand, half a liter of ash and half a glass of double superphosphate per bucket of the mixture. The soil mixture must be prepared in September so that it has time to freeze well in winter. At the end of January, the mixture is thawed, at the beginning of February - processing and hardening of seeds, then sowing is carried out. The first pick at the stage of two true leaves is carried out in the apartment, the second - in the greenhouse in early April - in the phase of 3-4 true leaves. From May 2 to May 10, seedlings are planted in open ground. Planting pits are made with a volume of 10 m. 3 liters of nutrient mixture are poured into each (half a liter of wood ash, half a glass of superphosphate, half a glass of nitroammophos, 50 g of potassium magnesia per humus bucket), and when the nutrient mixture is absorbed, add another 3 liters of water. Mix the mixture with the soil and plant the seedlings, deepening it along the cotyledon leaves. An hour after planting, water each plant with 1.5 liters of water, mulch with humus, this will save you from having to loosen the soil. Feeding is not required throughout the growing season - plants have a large supply of root food. To speed up the process of fruit ripening, you can add half a liter of ash and a glass of double superphosphate to the humus during the last mulching for every 10 liters. Plants are formed into three stems and placed in a checkerboard pattern with a distance between plants of 70 cm. The maximum height of plants after pinching should be up to 2 meters.

How to get 50-60 tomatoes from each bush

One bush of tomatoes can be grown on two roots - and the place is saved, and the harvest will be more abundant. Thus, you can get up to 50-60 good large tomatoes from each bush. The type doesn't matter.

To do this, seeds are planted in one container close to each other - at a distance of no more than 1 cm. When the seedlings grow up and the thickness of the stem becomes large enough, the top layer of the stems of two adjacent plants is removed with a sharp razor from the side that they face each other so that cambium exposed. The length of the incision is 2-3 centimeters. After that, the plants are tilted towards each other so that the exposed sections of the stems are aligned, and this place is tightly wrapped with a ribbon of film about 1 cm wide. Then such plants are grown as ordinary seedlings.

Shortly before planting the seedlings in the ground, in one of the plants that developed worse, pinch the top - 3-5 cm are left above the cut. The plant transplanted into the ground develops rapidly, as it now has a powerful root system. When it gets stronger, the film is carefully removed.

Caring for a double bush is different in that it needs to be watered and fed more often and more abundantly, given the presence of two roots. When planting, they put a reliable support, because the bush turns out to be much larger than usual.

How to grow tomatoes by May without a greenhouse and without seedlings

In the autumn, just before the frost, when the fruiting of tomatoes stops, tear off several shoots from the bushes (of any variety) you like and put them in water for 5-6 days (put the cut shoots into the water immediately or with a minimum period of time, otherwise you will not get a positive result ). After the specified time, the shoots will give roots, after which you can transplant them into the ground or into plastic bags, or into flower pots. During the winter, the tomato bushes will stretch out, and from each of them it will be necessary to break off the top and also put it in water, which, in turn, will give roots, after which they must be planted. Around April, your tomatoes will bloom, and in May they will already give red fruits.

Using this method, tomatoes can be grown even in areas where warm summers are very short.

Growing a tomato according to Maslov
(up to 70 kg per plant)

After observing the development of tomato plants for many years, I came to the conclusion that in order to ensure the pouring of a large number of fruits, a powerful root system is needed.

I tried to increase it in two ways. The first is planting seedlings not vertically, as is usually the case, but lying down. In a previously prepared furrow, I lay not only the root, but 2/3 of the stem, having previously removed the leaves from this part. I fall asleep with a layer of soil of 10-12 cm. I lay the plant strictly from south to north, so that as it grows, it reaches for the sun, straightens up and grows vertically. On the buried part of the stem, roots quickly form, which are included in the general nutrition system (Fig. 1). Moreover, these roots are several times larger and more effective than the main one.

Now for the second method. It is even simpler and accessible to any gardener. I suggest that some stepchildren on tomato plants not be removed, but used to make the root system more powerful. How? Very simple. The first side shoots - I don’t remove the stepchildren, but let them grow longer. I tear off the leaves from them, bend them to the ground and cover them with a layer of soil of 10-12 cm (Fig. 2). The dug-in stepchildren grow quickly. After a month, it is difficult to distinguish them from the main plant both in height and in the number of ripened fruits. It is characteristic that abundant fruiting begins in the immediate vicinity of the ground.

By the way, a question. Many readers ask: is it possible to use this method if tomato seedlings have already been planted in the ground in the usual way?

Unable to get overgrown seedlings at home so that they have a thick stem, I plant them vertically in the soil of an unheated greenhouse. For some time I let it grow, get stronger, and then, almost at the stage of the beginning of fruiting, I transplant it in my own way, lying down. I note that not only are tomato plants not afraid of frequent transplants, but, on the contrary, in my opinion, they love them. After each transplant, the plants take root even better, gain strength very quickly, grow well and bear fruit abundantly.

Our readers are interested in the rationale for your method.

Tomatoes are, of course, not bread, not potatoes and not meat. But people need them. They are loved both fresh and canned, so significant areas are allocated for their cultivation. If, however, the yield of tomatoes is sharply increased, then it is possible to have this vegetable in the required quantities and at the same time free up significant areas for growing other crops.

To introduce a new method, no additional material costs are required, you just need to understand the nature of the tomato plant. Unfortunately, plants cannot speak. If the tomato spoke, he would tell that, having intervened in the life of the plant, the person did not think through everything to the end. With the help of ropes, stakes, he made the plant grow vertically so that it occupies a smaller area. Well, that's not bad. But if a cucumber or grapes can grow well and bear fruit abundantly, being planted vertically, while holding both the plant itself and its numerous fruits due to the fact that wildlife itself provided the so-called “whiskers” for this purpose, then a tomato plant of such It does not have a mustache, and therefore it is not suitable for vertical cultivation. The tomato plant all the time tends to the ground in order to live a normal life, determined by nature, but it is not allowed to do this by the ropes on which the plant is suspended. It does not die, grows and even bears fruit, taking care of the offspring.

But even in what you think is an abnormal state for tomatoes, gardeners get pretty good results.

Yes, this is true, but the methods I propose allow you to get a crop many times more.

How to increase frost resistance in tomatoes

Very unfriendly weather in Transbaikalia, frosts here can happen at the end of June and again make themselves felt in August. But even here skill and sharpness help. So, Chita V. Ya. Vtorushin grows each tomato stalk on two root systems. To do this, he puts two pots with seedlings side by side. In the upper third of the stems, it carefully cuts the skin and connects the plants with a braid (Fig. 3). It turns out like grafting one stem to another. Before planting the seedlings, the braid is removed, the weaker stem is cut off above the graft. It turns out "one plant on two roots." Plant the plants on the ridge after the return frosts have passed. The bush does not get sick and grows evenly. Planting holes fall asleep gradually, 5 cm per week. During the period of increased growth and fruiting, Vladimir Yakovlevich gives top dressing from nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, and in the last top dressing he pours a glass of wood ash under each bush. Combine all top dressing with watering with water heated in the sun. Pours it under the root, trying not to wet the plant itself. When the plants are sufficiently heaped up, the gardener switches to the ditch irrigation system, that is, he spuds the bushes as high as possible, leaving narrow grooves between them, where he pours water. After watering, it is not necessary to loosen the soil, because in the main root zone it remains loose, and the water flows through the grooves. By the time the fruits ripen, the lower tier of leaves must be removed in order to improve air exchange inside the bush. This is necessary to prevent fungal diseases. Removing the lower leaves does not affect the yield. If, nevertheless, a fungal disease of tomatoes is detected, then the gardener fights against it with the help of copper sulfate or an extract from wood ash (10 r ash per liter of water). Watering is carried out twice.

Plants on two roots bear fruit earlier than usual. Run - three weeks! From August, Chita residents begin to grow tomatoes in their rooms.

How to get large tomato fruits

Mulching greatly contributes to the growth of tomatoes, reduces labor costs for watering and loosening.

To mulch the soil, you can use rotted manure or peat. Mulch immediately after planting seedlings and before watering and rains have time to compact the soil. For bush tomatoes, mulching is even more important than for tall ones. The fruits of bush tomatoes often come into contact with the soil or become contaminated by it during heavy rains. Chopped straw mulch prevents this better than manure or peat.

Tomatoes grow well on any warm, humus-rich, medium soil, not fertilized with fresh manure, and always in open sunny areas. Although tomatoes do well in soils recently fertilized with manure, it is better to use areas that have not received manure. You should not rush with the introduction of lime. Tomatoes are very sensitive to chlorine. Although tomatoes do not suffer from soil fatigue and therefore they can be grown in the same place for several years, the main thing is that the soil is not infected with late blight.

Regular top dressing allows you to get very large fruits of tomatoes. Top dressing begins two weeks after planting seedlings. To prevent the plants from forming a large vegetative mass without benefit, apply a complete fertilizer with a ratio of basic nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) 1:1:1. The easiest way to apply top dressing is superficially in a dry form. Fertilizers are evenly scattered between plants on mulch, and when watered, they dissolve it, thus delivering it to the roots. Top dressing is repeated every two weeks until mid-August. Each time, no more than 20 g of fertilizer per 1 square meter is applied.

In tall tomatoes, stepchildren should be regularly removed and the plants tied to a support. Stepchildren are removed not with a knife, but with fingers; this avoids damage to the main shoot. Stepchildren develop at the junction of the leaf with the main stem. When removing stepchildren, the sheet cannot also be damaged. Stepchildren are removed as soon as they can be grasped with fingers. To tie the stem to the support, fairly wide materials (ribbon, twine) are used, because thin threads and ropes cut through the stems. When tying, take into account the possible thickening of the stem and therefore tie up not too tight.

At the end of August, the tops of the main shoots are removed, since the fruits that develop later will no longer have time to ripen, but will only take away nutrients from already formed fruits.

Pinch the top of the plant should be above the brush, the flowers of which have already opened. It is necessary to leave at least one more leaf above this brush, otherwise it will not fruit. Pinching can accelerate the development of the fruits remaining on the plant. After pinching, you need to continue to monitor so that stepchildren do not appear.

Leaf and fruit rot (late blight) is a very dangerous disease of tomatoes, most often appears in rainy summers. Leaves turn brown and die. Brown and even black spots form on the fruits, and they rot and crack. Affected fruits become poisonous and inedible. Late blight can easily spread to potatoes.

Prevention measures are very simple: first of all, tomatoes should be planted in warm, sunny, open, well-ventilated areas. It is advisable to spray the plants with copper-containing preparations for preventive purposes, but the fruits after such treatment must be washed before use. Affected plants should be removed and burned immediately.