All about breeding rabbits at home. How to care for a decorative rabbit at home? Proper care of rabbits at home

Speaking about rabbits and their care procedures, it should be noted that these animals are completely unpretentious. Often, parents cannot afford to give a child a cat or dog because of their employment, inability to maintain or unwillingness to clean up after them. The best way out of the situation would be to buy a rabbit. In this article, we will tell you how to properly care for rabbits, keeping them healthy for years to come.

Before you get a lop-eared friend, you need to understand some important behavioral and other features of rabbits. Read the information in this section carefully and explain to your child. The more attentively the owners treat the ward, the longer he will live, delighting the owners.

Stress is the main rabbit enemy

Eared pets boast a highly developed nervous system. This means that the reaction to any inconvenience in the rabbit is very painful. Constant incidents in the life of an animal will sooner or later lead to illness and death.

Rabbits are very afraid of:

• too bright light;
• unexpected outbursts;
• sharp sounds;
• changes in the daily routine.

Be attentive to your pet's needs and try not to disturb him while eating, visiting the litter box, bathing or sleeping. Believe me, the untimely tenderness of the owner will alert the eared, and not please.

So that the contact of the animal with a person does not introduce the pet into a stressful state, the owner must tame the rabbit. What to do to make the rabbit feel comfortable? We understand in this article.

The right to the inviolability of the rabbit's nest

A prerequisite for coexistence with rabbits. Naturally, we are talking about a nest, inside of which there are small baby rabbits. However, to check the health of the offspring, you still have to touch the babies. It is better to conduct an inspection by placing the mother rabbit in another cage, behind the fence, or simply in the next room.

There is an opinion among experienced rabbit breeders that, having smelled a person on children, the mother will refuse to feed them and may even gnaw them. Play it safe and before examining the babies, wipe your hands with a filler from a rabbit cage to bring down the smell.

Activity is the key to a long life

Buying a rabbit to keep in a cage all the time? Stop! Eared, living in the wild, lead a highly active life. Rabbits need constant movement, so the owners will have to provide them with the open spaces of the entire apartment or its fenced part for walking.

A rabbit, limited in movement, will not live long. In order for the load for the animal to be sufficient, it should be released for a walk at least in the morning and evening.

Tracking the grinding of the patient's teeth or their trimming

Since rabbits chew on an incredible amount of roughage throughout their lives, their teeth grow for the rest of their lives, giving an increase of 2-3 millimeters every week. Not having time to grind or growing incorrectly, they can injure the oral cavity of the eared. So that the owners do not have to cut them on their own, you should take care of the constant presence of coarse fiber in the rabbit's diet. Ordinary hay, cleaned of dirt and other impurities, and succulent branches of fruit trees, as well as hard carrots, are perfect for the role of a natural sharpener.

Feeding a pet with purchased food is possible and will save him from a lack of nutrients, however, it will not ensure proper erasure of the animal's dental tissue. Therefore, in order not to engage in circumcision of the teeth yourself, provide your pet with constant access to hay or other coarse fiber.

Video - How to care for decorative rabbits

Having discussed the important points, let's move on to the main section, which lists the main rules for caring for rabbits.

Proper care is the key to rabbit health

Provide comfortable accommodation

In this section, we will talk not only about the cage, but also about the location of the rabbit house. Storerooms and closets are not suitable for eared life: there is too little light and air. Fluffies are very sensitive to mustiness and dust in the air. The lack of oxygen at the location of the rabbit house will sooner or later lead to the death of a furry friend.

When choosing the part of your house where the eared will live, avoid cool corners with walking drafts. Constantly resisting cold air currents, the rabbit will weaken and pick up a severe cold. However, you should not put a house near the battery, as rabbits do not like heat.

Home security must also be at a high level. All sharp objects that threaten the integrity of the rabbit coat and skin should be removed from the room. Pick up wires from the floor that the animal would like to chew on, plug any gaps large enough to crawl through.

Prices for cages for rabbits

Rabbit cage

Arrangement of the cell

Some progressive owners allow the pet to be constantly in the wild, to travel around the apartment without restrictions. Intelligent animals gradually learn to avoid dangers and also feel great. However, in order to regain strength, the pet needs a safe shelter, which is usually a cage.

When buying a cage for a rabbit, pay attention to its size. It should be spacious, at least 60 centimeters long, so that the pet moves freely inside. Get immediately the name with the pallet. A simple slatted bottom can damage your pet's paws.

Cover the floor of the house with filler. They can be soft cat litter, straw or sawdust. Install a toilet in a cage or behind a fence, which is an ordinary cat tray.

If your pet turned out to be intractable and does not want to pee in the tray, read our article. We describe all the ways to accustom a rabbit to a tray and the reasons why all efforts are in vain.

Food bowls and a sippy bowl are also placed inside the house. To prevent the animal from turning them over, choose heavy or hanging dishes.

Rabbits that live on a farm also need cage conditions. Using iron houses, it is easier to conduct breeding work, distribute feed, and treat pets correctly and in a timely manner. With the help of cells, the skins of male brawlers are also kept intact, for the sake of which some breeds of rabbits are bred.

You can place rabbit cages on the farm in a clean and bright barn, which is heated in the winter. In the warm summer, the houses are taken out into the countryside, under a canopy, giving eared residents plenty to enjoy the night scents of nature.

Get out on time

In order not to force the rabbit to defend its territory from an unexpected invasion, plant it for the duration of the cleaning activities. The frequency of cleaning the cage of a fluffy pet is one to two times a day. It includes the following elements:

• filler replacement;
• washing the pallet or the entire cage;
• disinfection.

Note! Washing and disinfecting the cage is best done using ordinary soap and potassium permanganate solution, since the pet may not like the smell of washing products, and especially caustic and poorly washed solutions will harm health.

Cleaning includes not only washing the cage, but also washing the tray and bowls of the animal, removing the remnants of old food.

For residents of rabbit farms, daily cleaning consists of cleaning the urinal cones that come out of the cages, as well as removing manure. After the slaughter of rabbits, the floors of the cages are completely removed, washed with hot water and disinfected, then stained with limestone.

Proper nutrition for rabbits

The diet of eared pets must be balanced. In food, the key to longevity and health of the pet. By monitoring the quality and quantity of your baby's nutrition, you will win a few more years of life for your furry friend. Consider the necessary elements of the rabbit menu.

Vegetables

It is best to feed rabbits vegetables from your garden that have not been treated with chemicals to increase shelf life. Eared pets will eat with pleasure:

• boiled potatoes;
• fresh tomatoes;
• fresh cucumbers;
• sugar beets;
• Jerusalem artichoke;
• carrot;
• broccoli;
• corn;
• zucchini (in small quantities), etc.

Vegetables are the rabbits favorite food item.

Greenery

Not only noble grass grown in the garden, but also vegetable waste, as well as herbs collected in the wild, can act as greenery:

• green salad;
• tops of carrots;
• tops of corn;
• garden chicory;
• radish tops;
• spinach;
• dandelion;
• plantain;
• yarrow;
• basil;
• dill;
• watercress, etc.

compound feed

Even providing your pet with an ideal plant-based diet, do not use to buy him dry compound feed for rabbits. It will help caring owners to compensate for the lack of getting any nutrients from the diet in case they missed something. Plus, one way or another, the harder the compound feed, the stronger it will erase the growing teeth of the eared ones.

Feed prices for rabbits

Compound feed for rabbits

Hay

An essential element of the rabbit diet. Perfect as a base. Dry hay is an excellent source of all essential trace elements and nutrients. It is suitable for erasing rabbit teeth and prevents the development of various animal diseases.

Grain mixtures

Fancy rabbits can survive without grain, but those bred for slaughter for meat or skins must receive it constantly. For feeding rabbits are perfect:

• oats;
• wheat;
• pearl barley;
• barley.

Do not overdo it with hearty foods, but do not forget about them, especially in winter.

Mineral Supplements

Mandatory elements for rapid weight gain meat animals. In their role are chalk, table salt and bone meal. All of the above items are freely available in pet stores. We advise farmers to buy these products in bulk, as a significant number of livestock require large amounts of top dressing.

Food of animal origin

Yes, to achieve weight gain in future rabbit meat, you can add animal products to the rabbit's diet, such as:

• milk;
• silkworm cocoons;
• whey;
• milk;
• meat or fish meal;
• blood meal;
• fish oil, etc.

The growth of meat with such nutrition is guaranteed to you, the main thing is not to forget that the rabbit is a herbivore and cannot eat only meat.

Caecotrophs

Cecotrophs are the primary feces of a rabbit, containing a huge amount of useful substances. It is pushed out of the intestines by the rabbit in clusters covered with mucus and is immediately or almost immediately eaten. Do not try to drive the rabbit away from caecotrophs and forbid him to eat them. So you deprive the animal of the lion's share of nutrients and after some time the rabbit will die.

By the appearance of the feces, you can get an idea of ​​​​the health of the rabbit. What to do with loose stools? How to get rid of worms in a rabbit? Read about it in our article.

harmful products

Some foods that are strongly associated with feeding rabbits can do real harm to eared rabbits. When feeding pets, these plant foods should be avoided:

• cabbage;
• sorrel;
• beans;
• rhubarb.

Let's explain why. Sensitive stomachs of rabbits swell from vegetables containing sulfur and other substances that are harmful to their work. Cabbage is the leader among sulfur-containing foods. Other products listed above also have a bad effect on the digestive system of rabbits.

It is very important for a farmer to learn to distinguish healthy food from harmful products that threaten the life and health of eared rodents. Diet recommendations, a list of allowed and prohibited foods.

Below is a table containing information about vegetables that are acceptable for consumption and the harmful effects of them in case of overfeeding a pet.

Taking care of your rabbit's health

The health of an animal depends not only on providing comfortable living conditions, proper, nutritious nutrition and active life, but also on timely medical interventions. First of all, when buying a rabbit, you should think about vaccinations that can be delivered at a veterinary clinic or on your own by purchasing the necessary vaccines.

Saving injections are administered to an animal at the age of about one and a half to two months. Vaccines are given for:

• viral hemorrhagic disease of rabbits;
• myxomatosis.

For these two main diseases, animals today often use a complex vaccine, so the eared one will have to endure only one injection. If everything goes well, revaccination is repeated after three months, and then every six months.

If other animals live in the house besides the rabbit, or you take the rabbit out for a walk in natural conditions on the street, take care of the rabies vaccination.

Daily Checkups

The eyes, ears and nose should be examined in a rabbit, at least 2-3 times a week. The subject of the search is purulent discharge or plaque, which can serve as a signal of the onset of the disease.

Do not self-treat the animal. The reaction of the rabbit body to drugs is unpredictable, especially if you are not a doctor and do not know the exact disease or at least the correct dosage of the drug.

Hygiene procedures

To prevent the formation of spools on the wool of your pets, straying into tangles, you need to comb them regularly. Small dog brushes are perfect for this activity. If you still find a tangle, cut it mercilessly with scissors, since it is no longer possible to comb the tuft.

Since rabbits do not have water procedures in nature, it is not recommended to bathe them in a bath. The sticky areas of wool are wiped with a damp cloth or sanitary napkin, and then a special conditioner for animal hair is applied. However, some rabbits simply love to bask in warm water and do not mind enduring a soapy massage from their owners.

On a farm, rabbits are usually not washed, however, no one forbids you to bathe a pet or comb its fur. The main thing is to remember the personal hygiene of the farmer and wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after the procedures.

Do not dry your pet's hair with a hair dryer, it will be fatal.

Nail clipping

Trim the claws of eared pets should be at least once a month. The trimming process is carried out by analogy with cutting off the claws of dogs and cats. The main thing is not to touch the blood vessels and the paw bone. If you are afraid to circumcise yourself, entrust it to experienced rabbit breeders. In any case, it will be necessary to carry out the procedure, since a rabbit can inadvertently pull out a long nail and will experience severe pain.

Video - How to cut a rabbit's claws?

Organization of rabbit leisure

Communication is the most important element in a rabbit's life. Many people get one rabbit at a time, so they become big-eared main playmates.

For those who consider communication with animals to be nonsense, the development of the intelligence of rabbits can be an argument. Those who regularly communicate with the owner learn much faster to understand some phrases of a person, visit the tray on time, etc.

Live communication with a person should consist in stroking, talking with a rabbit, careful gentle cuddling to the chest. So the pet will imbue the owner with sincere love and trust.

Bunny toys

As toys for a rabbit, the same ones that some owners buy for small dogs are perfect. For example, a small ball, the jumping of which is not accompanied by additional sound.

You can arrange for a pet a play box with sides in which to place torn newspapers and toilet paper. Rabbits love to burrow into it, equipping real minks. An additional cardboard system from the same boxes can be connected to such a box by connecting them with moves. The rabbit will be delighted with such a playground, and you can be calm about the safety of the furniture in the house.

Farm rabbits are usually not spoiled with toys, because their main occupation is to gain weight and produce offspring. However, it is not forbidden to give toys.

How to care for a female rabbit during pregnancy

The principles of caring for a female mother remain similar to those listed above, with a few changes.

Increasing the amount of feed in the diet

As soon as you find out about the rabbit's pregnancy, begin to gradually increase the dosage of feed in her diet. A sharp increase can lead to irreparable problems in the functioning of the digestive system, resulting in a miscarriage.

For pregnant female rabbits, it is necessary to additionally include alfalfa hay, cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley and compound feed in the diet. Grass should be supplied to the animal in large quantities, many times greater than the previous portions. Clean water should always be in the animal's bowl.

A couple of days before the birth of the rabbits, reduce the amount of rabbit food you receive. This way you will prevent the formation of mastitis and ketosis. The portion reduction should be at least 50%.

Nest for baby rabbits and mother

A newly born mother needs a nest box in which she will give birth and raise babies. You can buy it at a pet store. Around the 26th day of pregnancy, provide it to the rabbit.

Place soft straw or hay inside the nest, gently tamping down. Do not spare warm material, because the comfort of staying inside the nest of rabbits depends on its quantity.

The so-called queen cells serve as special nests on the farm - separate cages prepared in advance for the settlement of several pregnant rabbits. They are arranged according to the same type as home nests. Many females tear out fluff from their belly and line the location of future rabbits with it.

Communication with a motherfucking female

Communicate with a pregnant rabbit very carefully, stroking her back or head with gentle movements, speak in a warm voice. With the approach of childbirth, you can completely stop communicating, because, unlike people, rabbits do not need psychological support.

Summing up

As our article showed, taking care of rabbits is a pleasure. Unpretentious creatures do not require constant attention or exotic food. Even a child who shows the proper degree of responsibility will cope with their content.

Video - How to care for rabbits

1. If you took a hare, you can return it to the same place where you found it within 24 hours. But only on condition that the hare is full, healthy and does not “smell” with extraneous odors. At the time of return, there should be no birds, dogs, cats and other animals in the environment.

• You cannot return the hare to the nearest bush or to any other place other than where it was found. Voluntarily, no foreign hare will feed him.
• It is undesirable to return the hare if more than a day has passed. Often, hares "migrate" from the nest where they were born at 50-200 meters. Moreover, the hare could "appear" or change the smell that betrays him to predators. Your baby is at risk of being left alone.
• Do not pick up rabbits (except in special cases), do not touch them to photograph, cuddle or just look around. Growing out of will has many nuances, and too much attention to a wild hare can expose him to predators (ravens, rats, foxes, cats, dogs, etc.).

• What to feed?

• Orphan hares and foster mothers…

• Where to keep a rabbit? How to keep a rabbit?

How to feed a rabbit?
1. From birth to 1.5 months - a substitute for cat or puppy milk.
2. From 2 weeks - supplement to the diet, fresh herbs, twigs, leaves. Not excluding milk.
3. From 1.5 months - a complete transition to solid food. Fresh herbs, branches, berries, fruits, vegetables.
4. From 2 months - the introduction of grain-free (or with a low grain content) ready-made feed into the diet. Not excluding juicy food (Fresh herbs, branches, berries, fruits, vegetables.).

How to keep a bunny?
1. Up to 1 month - a cage or an aviary at home. Walking is required, but under vigilant supervision.
2. From 1 month - completely free range!
3. Relocation to the enclosure is recommended not earlier than 5-6 months, and ideally - in a year. If it starts to run wild, then there is a chance that a person will not be afraid.
4. If you need the hare to be completely tame, keep it free-range at home.
5. It is impossible to keep in a cage. Deadly dangerous.

IT IS FORBIDDEN: feed with purchased cow's milk, add condensed milk, use baby human mixtures.

A pet rabbit can become a fun new member of your family. However, this pet will require no less care than a dog or cat. Rabbits typically live 8–12 years, so owners must be prepared to make a long-term commitment to caring for them. Before deciding to purchase a rabbit, you will need to familiarize yourself with certain rules that you will need to follow, as well as make the necessary preparations. When you are ready for the appearance of your rabbit, you will already be able to familiarize yourself with the issues of caring for this pet.

Steps

Part 1

Buy a spacious cage. Before you bring your rabbit home, make sure you have everything you need ready for him. This way, once your pet arrives home, you'll be all set to accommodate it, and fuss will be kept to a minimum. First of all, you need to get a reliable rabbit cage. Even though your rabbit will spend quite a lot of time running around the house, he will need to have a safe hiding place where he can hide from the outside world. It must belong exclusively to the rabbit. It is in the cage that the rabbit will sleep at night, and it is in it that he will run away if he feels irritation or senses danger.

• A large spacious cage or even a dog pen can provide the necessary personal space for a rabbit. The main thing is that the rabbit feels safe there.

1. Find the right bedding for your rabbit. Various materials can be used as bedding. Experiment with different types of bedding to see what suits your pet best. The most common bedding options are hay, straw, and cut paper. Try to avoid the use of sawdust, as the rabbit may accidentally inhale it.

   Get the right litter box. Since the rabbit will live in your home, he will need a litter box. There is no universal litter box that will fit any rabbit. Your rabbit may like a covered litter box or a litter box with a certain height, as some litter boxes may seem too high or too low. Try starting with a regular cat litter box that is big enough for your rabbit to lie down comfortably in.

   • You can also consider purchasing several toilet trays at once. This way, the rabbit will be able to safely run around your house and will not feel the need to run all the way through the house to the only tray to go to the toilet.
   • The type of litter used for the tray will also depend on the preferences of the rabbit. Try different types of filler. Common litters include silica gel cat litter, hay, straw, sawdust (not cedar or pine), and cut paper.
   • The main thing is that the filler is not clumpy and is not made on the basis of clay. These fillers can harm your rabbit if they are swallowed or inhaled.

2. Buy a suitable food bowl. Your rabbit will need their own food bowl. It must necessarily be made of a heavy material, such as ceramic. This will keep the bowl from tipping over, as most rabbits enjoy tipping their food bowls.

   • Make sure that the sides of the bowl you buy are not too low so that the food does not wake up from it, but not too high so that the rabbit can safely eat from it.

3. Get a drinker or water bowl. It is not uncommon for rabbit cages to already have a drinker, but it is a good idea to have several drinkers at once. For a rabbit, of course, it is more convenient to drink from a bowl, but he can easily knock it over, unlike a drinker.

   • Drinkers may not appeal to your rabbit. If you find him irritated by having to use a drinker, switch to a heavy ceramic water bowl.

4. Give the rabbit plenty of hay. Hay in the content of rabbits has universal functions. It serves as bedding, food and entertainment for the rabbit, it can even be used as litter box filler. It is very important that the hay is of good quality. For most rabbits, timothy hay is best.

5. Choose the right food for your rabbit. The ideal food for a rabbit is grass and hay, for the digestion of which their stomach is intended. Ideally, the basis of a rabbit's diet should be fresh green hay. It should be supplemented with a small amount of extruded pellets (made from similar pellets) and fresh fruits and vegetables. Most often, rabbits are given broccoli, bok choy, carrot and beet tops, cilantro, cabbage and cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale and other greens.

   • Do not allow your rabbit to have unlimited access to pelleted food, as this can lead to obesity and health problems. Also avoid purchasing rabbit foods that are brightly colored and contain nuts, grains, and fruits. They are usually too rich in sugars and carbohydrates.
   • If you are not sure what vegetables to feed your rabbit, ask your veterinarian or rabbit breeder in your area for nutritional advice.
   • You should not supplement your rabbit's diet with vitamin supplements. A healthy rabbit does not need them.
   • Contrary to common misconception, an excess of carrots in the rabbit's diet can be very bad for his health. Small pieces of carrots can be used as treats, but should not be given daily to a rabbit. It is perfectly acceptable to treat a rabbit with carrots once a week.

6. Provide your rabbit with sources of entertainment. Like other pets, rabbits need toys. Buy a variety of toys for your rabbit, such as chewable toys or branched tunnels. You can even make your own toys for the rabbit, for example, from cardboard boxes with holes of the right size so that the rabbit can go through them.

   • An unprocessed branch of an apple tree can be an excellent homemade toy for grinding teeth. Before giving a branch to a rabbit, make sure it is clean and not treated with anything harmful to the rabbit.
   • If you choose to give your rabbit a branch from another tree, make sure it is not poisonous and dry the branch for at least six months before giving it to your pet. The branches of the apple tree do not require such preparatory procedures, the main thing is that they are clean and untreated.
   • You must provide the rabbit with toys for a variety of purposes. Different rabbits like different types of toys.

   Part 2

   Rabbit selection

   1. Think about whether you have enough time and energy to care for a rabbit. Rabbits are not easy pets to keep. They require the same investment of time, money and effort as dogs and cats. For the pet, it will be necessary to purchase a drinking bowl, high-quality rabbit food, toys, a litter box and provide the rabbit with no less physical activity than is required for a dog. In addition, you will need to give your rabbit daily attention.

      • These animals have a unique character and need special care. Consider getting another pet if you are concerned that you may not have the time or money to properly care for your rabbit.
      • You should spend at least three hours a day with your rabbit when he is out of the cage, and possibly some of the time he is in the cage. If you don't spend enough time with your rabbit every day, he will get lonely and may become depressed.
      • If you yourself cannot devote enough time to your rabbit every day, then consider getting another rabbit. You should keep them separate until you have properly introduced them so that they can become friends. rabbits do not like share personal space if friendly relations have not been established between them.

   2. Decide what kind of rabbit you want to have. There are many factors to consider when choosing a rabbit. Decide whether you want to have a rabbit with a specific appearance and whether it should be purebred. There are a large number of different breeds that vary in size, color and temperament. In addition, you should decide whether you want to get a male or a female, and also think about the approximate age of the pet you are purchasing.

      • Gather information about all the domestic rabbit breeds available for purchase if you are not yet sure which rabbit you want to buy.

   3. Find where to buy a rabbit. You can buy a rabbit from various places. The specific place of purchase may depend on which rabbit you decide to have. If you do not have special requirements for a future pet, then you can try to take a rabbit from an animal shelter, choosing it from among the rabbits available there. In this case, the advantage of your rabbit will be that he is older, and he will already have overcome a rather difficult adolescence, in addition, animals in animal shelters are usually already neutered or spayed.

      • You can also purchase a rabbit from a pet store. The health status of animals sold in pet stores can be highly dependent on the conditions of their keeping, so try to choose a pet store that has qualified staff and provides proper care for the available animals.
      • If you want to get a rabbit of a certain appearance, then you may need to find breeders of the breed you need. Additionally, you can get information about the pedigree of your pet from the breeder. Rabbits purchased from breeders are usually better socialized, as they are trained to communicate with humans from birth.

   4. See how the baby bunny interacts with parents and other bunnies. If you decide to adopt a little rabbit, you need to pay attention to a number of signs, which will be discussed below.

      • If anything seems strange to you, feel free to ask the rabbit breeder for more details about the character and temperament of the parents of the litter of rabbits. They may react differently to you because they don't know you or because you are too close to their offspring.

   5. Get yourself an adult rabbit. The choice of an adult rabbit is somewhat different from the choice of a rabbit. Go to the place where you decided to take a rabbit. Examine there all available adult rabbits. Make sure they are cheerful and outgoing. Do not take a rabbit that looks vicious or aggressive. In addition, the rabbit you choose must be healthy.

      • The signs of good health in an adult rabbit are the same as for a baby rabbit. For health problems, examine your rabbit thoroughly, including its eyes, ears, and coat.
      • Animal shelters are a great place to acquire an adult rabbit. There, animals are often already castrated or sterilized. In addition, this way you can give the rabbit another chance to find a happy family.

   6. Choose the rabbit that you like the most. After checking the general health of the rabbits of your choice, you can choose the one you like best. In no case do not rush into the choice. This rabbit will stay with you for about eight years, so you should try to find the perfect companion for you. Play with the bunnies you like to make your final decision. Try to understand if the rabbit you like liked you.

      • Remember that at first, the rabbit can be a little shy and cautious, as he has not yet met you. Just pay attention to the general manifestations of his character and socialization.
      • Once you've made your final selection, don't forget to get some additional information about the rabbit before you take it home. This includes information about food preferences, toilet habits, and the age of the pet.

   Part 3

   Strengthening your relationship with your rabbit

   1. At first, carefully observe the rabbit. When you first bring your rabbit home, you should observe how he interacts with his environment. Pay attention to where he goes to the toilet, how he reacts to other family members, how he plays with toys, which ones he likes and which he ignores, how much he likes the room in which you put him.

      • Do not worry, even if the rabbit at first just sits in the corner, eats and sleeps. Don't bother him no matter what he does. He's just getting used to the new environment.
      • In the first few days, do not let the rabbit out of the cage. Every day, sit next to the cage and talk to your pet in a quiet, low tone of voice.

   2. Let the rabbit out of the cage. Once your rabbit is comfortable with you, you can let him leave the cage. Close all doors of the room where the cage is located. If any of the doorways does not have a door, block it temporarily. After that, let the rabbit out of the cage. Don't pull it out, just leave the cage door open and let the rabbit come out on its own.

      • Sit in the center of the room and do something quiet like reading, listening to soft music, or writing.
      • Have a few pieces of vegetables on hand in case the rabbit is interested in you.

   3. Let the rabbit communicate with you. When the rabbit is out of the cage, let him run freely. Don't force him to come to you and don't move yourself too much. In the end, the rabbit will come up to you to inquire about what you do and what you are. Let him sniff you, and then treat you to a small piece of vegetable about the size of a thumbnail.

      • If the rabbit is cautious, sit still and talk to him quietly. Do not make sudden movements, as this may frighten him.

   4. Take your time and wait. If your rabbit is slow to come to you, keep waiting. If he comes up to you and does not take the treat from your hands, just put it on the floor and return to your activity. Ignore the rabbit until it reaches the treat. When he does this, let him eat the treat.

      • After the rabbit has eaten the first bite of the treat, offer him another one. If he comes up for a second bite, stay still and keep talking to your pet in a low voice.

   5. Pet the rabbit. If the rabbit calmly comes up to you and eats from your hands, start slowly stroking his head the moment he finishes eating. If he doesn't move or lowers his head to the floor, keep stroking. If the rabbit dodges or runs away, stop petting it and get back to your business. You will have to wait until he approaches you again to try again.

      • If a rabbit bites you, squeal loudly. This will let him know that you are hurt and that he hurt you.

   6. keep trying make contact with the rabbit . If you are experiencing difficulties, you should not give up. Continue alternating between treats, petting, and completely ignoring the rabbit. If he approaches you, try to feed him. If the rabbit pushes you with its head, then it requires your attention. Stroke him in that case.

      • Repeat the procedure every few days until a strong friendship is established between you and your pet.

   Part 4

   Concern for the health and safety of the rabbit

   1. Look for a veterinarian with experience treating rabbits. When you get a rabbit, you need to take care to find a veterinarian who can monitor his health. You should look for a veterinarian who will have sufficient experience in the treatment of rabbits and other small animals, as it is very different from what is required for cats or dogs. After purchasing a rabbit, be sure to take it to the veterinarian to make sure that the pet is healthy.

      • A rabbit, like any other pet, will also need regular scheduled checkups at the veterinarian.
      • In the event of any rabbit emergency, it will be helpful if the veterinarian already knows your pet.

   2. Handle your rabbit correctly. When you're ready to get a rabbit, teach everyone in the family how to handle it properly. To grip the rabbit correctly, grab it from below along the entire body with one hand, and with the other hand support its back. When lifting the rabbit up, bring it to your side for extra support.

      • In a state of fear, rabbits may resist. They may try to get out of a seemingly dangerous situation. If you handle a rabbit incorrectly, it can accidentally break its own back, which often leads to fatal paralysis.

      Try not to squeeze the rabbit too much. Despite the visual appeal of these adorable fluffy balls, rabbits do not like to be picked up and hugged too often. They are more likely to be wary of hugs, especially if you hang your body over them when you try to pick them up. Since in nature rabbits are the object of prey hunting, such actions on your part will instinctively remind your pet of an attack by eagles and other birds of prey, which may cause it to be frightened.

      • Very few rabbits like to be stroked for long periods of time, however, many rabbits will enjoy short strokes. Sometimes the rabbit may even pinch you with its teeth to make you stop petting it.
      • The behavior of rabbits differs depending on the nature of a particular animal. Try to study the character of your pet in order to understand how best to approach him in order to take him in your arms.
      • If you want to acquire a male and a female at the same time, then you should castrate and sterilize the animals. Be aware that rabbits from the same litter can also mate with each other. Female rabbits become sexually mature as early as five months of age. If you do not castrate the male, then he will mark the territory and try to mate with any oncoming living creatures.
      • Check your rabbit's teeth once a month. His teeth may wear unevenly and need to be sharpened. If you notice misaligned teeth or excess saliva around the mouth, or problems with eating, take your pet to the veterinarian.
      • Keep your rabbit away from overheating. Since rabbits are covered with fairly thick fur, they do best in somewhat cool temperatures.
      • Never scare a rabbit, as it may die from a broken heart.

What to feed a little rabbit? and got the best answer

Answer from Hedgehog[guru]
maybe it's better to take it to where you found it?

Answer from Chris[guru]
Picked up a bunny. How to feed him at home?
Answer: It is very difficult for an unprepared person to do this. Try it the way little rabbits are fed. Remember that a rabbit in nature feeds rabbits only once - at night. When feeding rabbits, be careful not to overfeed them, as this can cause their death. Goat milk is used to feed rabbits. The average volume of milk per rabbit is 3 cu. cm.
Feed rabbits with a syringe or pipette in an upright position twice a day. With the time of growing up, the rabbits are fed up to once a day. If the rabbits' eyes are still closed, after feeding, it is necessary to massage the tummy with a warm, damp towel so that the rabbits can go to the toilet. Domestic rabbits are weaned at the age of six weeks, wild rabbits at the age of 3-4 weeks. If your rabbits have bloated tummies, you are probably overfeeding them or feeding them too often.
Place clean towels in the nest of the blind rabbits and cover them on top to create darkness. Until the rabbits' eyes open, do not remove the towel. Keeping temperature should be 18-21 "C. Excessively high temperatures are dangerous for rabbits. If the room is cooler, place a heating pad under half the nest. Do not touch wild rabbits too often, as this can also adversely affect their health. In order to feel well, wild rabbits do not require high temperatures.
Consulted by Irina Balykova

I have a little hare - a girl about 1.5 months old. Please tell me how to take care of her and what to feed her? Everyone tells us that hares don't live in captivity, is that true?
Answer: Hares live in captivity, but their life is short - 4-6 years. In the apartment, the animal has little space and is too warm. If you leave a hare to live with you, be sure to offer vegetables and fruits, even if the animal refuses to eat them. You can also feed grains of oats, wheat, barley, the main food for hares in winter is branches of deciduous trees, in summer - grass.
Care is not much different from caring for a rabbit: a clean cage, fresh food and water.
Keep in mind that hares are more shy and less tame than domestic rabbits.
Advises Benislavskaya Nina - consultations on rodents (archive

The health of fluffy pets depends on how properly organized the maintenance of rabbits at home. There are several ways to keep rabbits. Each of them has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. You can get rabbits both for getting dietary meat and fluffy skins, and as decorative pets.

However, quality animal care is important in any case. Thanks to the tips and thematic videos in this article, even a novice rabbit breeder can master the intricacies of caring for rabbits. Experienced farmers will also certainly find useful information about their pets.

Before you get rabbits, you need to decide for yourself two questions. The first one is the goal you are pursuing. You can keep rabbits for household purposes. In this case, you should choose several heterosexual individuals of meat or meat-skin breeds (White giant, New Zealand, Russian ermine, Soviet chinchilla, etc.). Rabbits of these breeds give the highest yield of meat and beautiful, thick fur skins.

In an apartment or house, as a rule, they contain decorative breeds of rabbits (Squirrel, Lion's Head, Dwarf Fox, etc.). They are small in size and have fluffy fur. They look very nice live, in the photo and video.

Having decided on the choice of breed, you should consider where you will keep rabbits, because both ordinary rabbits and decorative rabbits should have their own separate space in which the animal will feel safe, and you can provide the best care for him.

In rabbit breeding, several methods of keeping rabbits are practiced. To determine which one is suitable in each case, it is necessary to compare their benefits and disadvantages.

This is one of the most traditional and simple methods, which is most often adopted by beginner rabbit breeders. Cages for rabbits can be both stationary and portable. Stationary are installed under a canopy, in a barn or a warm basement. Portable ones can be taken outside in the summer, and brought into a warm, dry room in the winter, since many rabbits do not tolerate low temperatures.

Cells differ in their purpose. The "layout" of a cage for a female rabbit with cubs will be different from a cage for a male sire or young.

You can build a cage for rabbits yourself according to the finished drawing. The process is described in detail in videos shot by experienced rabbit breeders. Cages are made of plastic or wooden frame with a metal mesh. The size is calculated based on the size of the breed. On average, a cage for an adult rabbit is 1 m long and 0.5 m high and deep.

The advantages of cage keeping of rabbits include individual care and control of each individual, optimal feed consumption, and a reduction in the risk of epidemics. The disadvantages of this method are the cost of buying or building cages, and the large amount of work involved in cleaning the cages and feeding the rabbits.

Without fail, a decorative rabbit, which is kept at home, must have a cage. The house should be spacious enough (at least 5 times the size of the rabbit itself) and cozy so that the pet feels comfortable in it. From time to time, the rabbit should be let out for a walk around the apartment, house or garden (if possible). Rabbits are active and playful animals that need to move around a lot.

Free content

This method is being practiced in rabbit breeding more and more often, since it allows you to create conditions for rabbits that are as close to natural as possible. Unlike cage keeping, when rabbits hibernate indoors, with free breeding, rabbits are outdoors all year round. This method is suitable only for household breeds of rabbits. It is good to practice it with a small number of rabbits that are kept in the country or in the village.

Free Growing Methods:

• on pasture;
• in a hole;
• in an aviary.

grazing content

The most profitable from the point of view of saving forces and finances is the grazing of rabbits. In fact, rabbits are kept in a green meadow, where a variety of green food grows and there is always a drinker with clean fresh water. To protect the animals, a canopy is installed, a fence and places for hiding a rabbit with rabbits or separating males and females are equipped.

Open content is attractive because the animals move a lot. This has a positive effect on their health and even character. "Street" rabbits are less aggressive and more calm than their counterparts raised in captivity. "Free" rabbits are also distinguished by greater endurance. Natural food contributes to faster weight gain of rabbits, they have earlier sexual maturity. The method greatly facilitates the feeding of the herd and cleaning the territory.

Among the disadvantages are the lack of complete control over the rabbits and the high probability of mass epidemics. In addition, after a few years, outdoor rabbits become smaller and degenerate.

Rabbits in cages

Growing rabbits in aviaries is optimal for seasonal breeding of meat breeds. For example, many give birth to rabbits in the summer in the country. For animals to feel free, they need enough personal space: 4-5 square meters. m. for a rabbit with rabbits and at least 1 sq. m. for a young rabbit. In close quarters, animals can harm each other and even get sick.

For shelter in bad weather or heat, as well as wintering and breeding in an aviary, a canopy (preferably closed), a cage (several or one common) or artificial rabbit holes should be equipped. If space permits, it is ideal to attach the aviary to a closed barn.

Please note that rabbits are very fond of digging deep holes, so the enclosure fence should be deepened deeper (from 0.8 m). Long roofed feeders and drinkers are installed along the walls. Their cleanliness is carefully monitored.

The advantages of the aviary method include its versatility. In the aviary after the rabbits, you can keep chickens, for example, or other poultry. Experts do not advise keeping them together. Chickens can peck at small rabbits or infect rabbits with an infection.

You should also know that all herds must be settled in the aviary at the same time, and the rabbits must be equal in age and size. You can’t add new members to them, strangers can be killed. This option is also good for decorative species. Pet stores sell ready-made portable enclosures that are installed in the apartment. In such a house, the pet will be spacious.

Growing in a hole

This method is very much loved by experienced breeders. The advantage of keeping rabbits in pits is, first of all, in the limited space. Just a few meters is enough. The cost of materials is also minimal: all that is needed is a canopy over the pit, drinkers and feeders.

Dwellings for okrol and wintering rabbits will dig for themselves (it is interesting that only females are engaged in digging). The temperature in the pit remains comfortable both in winter and in summer. An important condition: the pit should be located on a hill so that the rabbits are not drowned by melt or groundwater, or the pit should be equipped with a drainage system.

It should be borne in mind that pit content is only suitable for meat and universal breeds (Butterfly, Silver, Soviet Chinchilla, California). Fur species with this method become unusable, their fur falls off, bald spots from "combat" wounds in the struggle for territory are visible on it. In addition, it is almost impossible to control animals with pit keeping.

Caring for rabbits at home

Proper care is the key to successful rabbit breeding, whether it is economic or decorative breeding. For the most part, rabbits are quite demanding on the conditions of detention, feed quality and care. Fluffy animals do not tolerate intense heat and frost, they get sick from drafts, poor-quality food or water, and dirt in their homes.

Here is a list of mandatory activities, without which it is impossible to grow a healthy and well-fed rabbit at home, regardless of its type and size:

• regular and thorough cleaning of cells;
• high-quality various feeds, the constant availability of fresh water in the drinker;
• timely vaccination and prevention of epidemics;
• care of teeth, nails, hair.

Particular attention should be paid to a pregnant rabbit, as well as a family with rabbits. During the period of gestation, as well as after childbirth, the female needs enhanced fortified nutrition. There should always be clean water in the cage, and the need for liquid in rabbits after childbirth is twice as much as before them.

In the first days of life and for at least a month, the cubs are milk-fed and live with their mother, in the same room with her. However, the common cage is separated by a partition so that a large female does not harm the little rabbits. After leaving the nests at the age of one or two months, the growing rabbits are transferred to feed and removed from the rabbit.

Conditions of detention

The rabbit dwelling should be safe, without protruding sharp elements. Drinking bowls, feeders are equipped in cages, aviaries or open pens, and the rabbit has a place for sorting and rearing rabbits. Sunlight must enter the rabbit dwellings, so the room where the rabbits are kept must have windows (their area is a tenth of the total area of ​​​​the barn or farm). You can use fluorescent lamps. Light day for rabbits is 8-16 hours.

Cells should be well ventilated with clean air, without ammonia fumes, dust, fluff. Domestic rabbits feel most comfortable at 10-20 degrees Celsius. Mature males can withstand frosts up to 30 degrees for a couple of days. In general, cold, like heat, drafts, dampness lead to diseases and death of animals.

In summer, under open conditions, rabbits are protected from sunstroke by constructing a canopy. Straw or hay, which is laid on top, allows to prevent heating of the cells. In winter, rabbit cages are best set up in a warm shed, basement, or greenhouse. Animals must be protected from cold drafts and dampness. The air in the room should not be too dry (optimal humidity is 50-60%).

Cell purity

Should be done regularly. Non-compliance with hygiene leads to animal diseases. Outdoor cages and aviaries are cleaned every 2-3 days, indoors - every day. Cells are disinfected every 2 weeks. Every day it is necessary to clean the feeders, drinkers. Change bedding and sawdust on the floor regularly.

The mesh floor allows fecal pellets to pass through, and the cages can be cleaned less often. However, not all types of rabbits can be safely kept in cages with a mesh floor for their health. An alternative would be plastic or wooden pallets.

Feeding rabbits

The diet of animals must be balanced and nutritious. In summer, it is mainly grass, fresh vegetables, fruits, cereals, mixed fodder, in winter - hay and vitamin supplements are added. All feed should be only of high quality, expired or rotten are not allowed.

These animals do not have intestinal peristalsis: the digested food is pushed through by a new portion of the food eaten. Therefore, rabbits constantly chew, their gastric juice is produced continuously. There should always be food in the cages. Fresh water is poured twice a day - in the morning and in the evening.

Rabbits are fed twice a day with an interval of 10-12 hours. The menu is as varied as possible. Before laying out the feed, the remnants of the previous portion are removed from the feeders. Fluffy rodents are very fond of fresh grass. They will be delighted with clover, alfalfa, dandelion. The collected herbs are washed with running water, dried and slightly dried, only then juicy greens are given to the rabbits.

animal health care

The first thing owners should take care of is the timely vaccination of rabbits. Vaccinations will protect pets from such dangerous diseases as viral hemorrhagic disease and myxomatosis. The vaccine is administered to rabbits in the first month and a half of life, which have gained weight from 0.5 kg.

Another point of care for rabbits is trimming the claws. In the natural environment and when grazing, their nails grind off themselves. At home, the nails are trimmed regularly (about once a month). Do the procedure very carefully. There are small capillaries in the claws that can be damaged.

Rabbit fur also needs care. The coat needs to be brushed daily to prevent mats from forming. Giants need to take special care of their fur. Their coat is more prone to matting. Combs and slickers for cats and dogs are great for combing. If a rolled-up ball of wool nevertheless forms on the skin, it is immediately cut out before it becomes a tangle.

Rabbits need to grind down their constantly growing teeth. In this they are helped by compound feed useful for animals. You can also put hard twigs of fruit trees, oak in a cage. Hard carrots also help grind teeth.

Careful care of rabbits keeps pets healthy. Timely cleaning of cages, high-quality feed, fresh water and vaccination are the minimum set for everyone who decides to have rabbits, regardless of how they are kept.