How to make a stand for information with your own hands. How to make an information stand with your own hands

I decided to somehow make a couple of rotary stands, as in the photo. Usually these are used for hanging satin ribbons on reels. Height 220 cm, width 50 cm - so, the thing is not small.

The stand must be swivel. I had to break my head a bit. It was necessary to select a pipe, a bearing and a washer so that together they would form a swivel assembly (the design of the swivel assembly itself will be presented later). At the beginning, I thought that I could just pick them up to each other "in place", but very soon I realized the viciousness of this path and went to study literature.

After considering different combinations, I chose the best option:

From "GOST 3262-75. Steel water and gas pipes." chose a pipe - "sorokovka" with an outer diameter of 48.

The frame of the stand is made of profile pipe 25x25x1.5. Legs from a pipe 20x40x2. Crossbeams from a bar 7 mm.

From "GOST 7872-89. Single and double thrust ball bearings." chose bearings of the 8210 series with an inner diameter of 50.

In "GOST 11371-78. Washers." I found washers d48 with accuracy class A and an inner diameter of 50.

But if there were no problems with the pipe and bearings, then the M48 washers of accuracy class A are not too hot commodity. Couldn't find any for sale.
I found Leirus Business Center LLC on the Internet, located in my city, which had these washers in the price list on the site. I called the specified phone number, but their managers are strange. What is the minimum order, how many pieces are in the package, what is the price per package and what is the delivery time, it was not possible to find out. I'm not talking about what accuracy class according to GOST 11371-78 their washers belong to.

I solved the problem with washers simply - I turned to a turner, who turned them for 70 rubles apiece.

Unfortunately, I don't have pipe clamps. But it is important to accurately set the angles and distances between the frame elements. To do this, I cut out a template from plywood with the right size and precise angles and just fixed profile pipes on it with clamps.

Yes, and there is no bed for the grinder either. Therefore, the cutting of parts is not always ideal.

But after welding, everything falls into place. Boiled with Monolith 2 mm electrodes. Current 50 A with a margin.

Thanks to a simple template, we managed to get a good result.

We clean the seams with a grinder.

Using the same template, I set up the vertical racks of the frame. It wasn't perfect, but acceptable.

One of the elements of the swivel mechanism is a washer, which is located at the bottom of the frame and which rests on the bearing. It is mounted on four segments, which must be welded accurately enough. To do this, at the beginning we weld the first crossbar at the bottom of the frame.

Now we weld the second crossbar

And having made the same sections, we place the puck in the center

We fix the washer by welding.

In the upper part of the frame there is another crossbar with a piece of pipe welded perpendicular to it. This piece of pipe will also become an element of the swivel frame in the future.
Part of the future stand is ready. Let's call this part "Rotor" because that's what will rotate.

Adjustable feet will be welded on the ends of the legs. Drilled holes for them.

I made another template from the same plywood. It fixes the position of the legs relative to the lower edge of the column and the angle of the legs.

It also fixes the position of the leg relative to the axis of the column.

Using a square, set the position of the legs relative to each other

After work, the template was slightly charred at the welding points, but still quite suitable.

I welded a washer on the stator at the bottom. The thrust bearing will rest on this washer, and the rotor washer on it.

In the upper part of the stand, it was necessary to insert some kind of bushing into the pipe so that the thinner pipe would swell freely in it. Wherein lathe I don't have either. I had to scratch my head a little more.
As a result, for the manufacture of the sleeve, I took a plastic coupling for 32 mm polyethylene pipes. It fits perfectly into the "sorokovka" water and gas pipe. The connection is tight, but it can be disassembled by hand.

Using a drilling machine, I adjusted the inner diameter of the sleeve. Just in case, so that the plastic does not melt and spoil the forstner drill, I set the minimum speed on the machine - everything went smoothly.

I sawed off the extra parts with a hacksaw and that's it - the sleeve is ready

The rotary mechanism works perfectly - nothing dangles, does not creak, it works smoothly. This is clearly seen in the video:

Now we need to give it all a presentable look. First of all, peel off the rust.

Before painting, we protect the adjustable legs and their threads from paint.

And finally, we paint. It was real torment. The fact is that parts of the stands occupied the entire space in the workshop. They had to be painted in parts and rearranged all the time, because they could not be approached from all sides. As a result, in some places, the fresh coating was damaged from an accidental touch, either with the elbow, or with the back, or with something else. So also the omnipresent experience added inconvenience.
Therefore, I had to expand the workshop a little and start another room - for painting. More about it here:
Now paint jobs do not cause too many problems and do not take too much time.

Some difficulties arose when painting the crossbars. They are made from 7mm bar. At the beginning, the strategy was as follows: lay them out on a plane, apply paint with an airbrush, let dry. Then turn them over on the other side and apply paint again with an airbrush. For the third time, the bars should be painted over on all sides. So it was in theory.

But in practice, the bars could not be turned to the other side. Because they are crooked and this curvature always tends to take a lower position. After laying the second layer and seeing that I paint almost the same side, I decided to paint the rods by hand. Oh, and what a chore it is! Two coats took almost two full days.

It was no less dreary to install almost five hundred rod holders, screwing almost a thousand self-tapping screws with a drill into them. By the way, it was not easy to buy them. I had to wander in search of the right amount of identical rod holders.

After installing the rod holders on the frame, we make the final assembly of the stands. At the bottom, the swivel mechanism consists of two washers separated by a bearing. This node holds the entire vertical load.

In the upper part, the rotary mechanism consists of two pipes inserted one into the other and separated by a plastic sleeve. This node holds lateral loads.

It remains to cut the crossbars

And install them in the rod holders

Turntables are almost ready.

There is one more detail left. In the upper part of the stand there is a box, which is put on top and logos are applied on the walls. I decided to make it from 18mm plywood, although Gamma, which served as the prototype, makes it from tin.

In the upper part of the box on the inside there is a ledge with which it is held on the frame of the stand.

I painted the boxes in my new paint brushes, the link to which is above in this article.
The first layer on a tree always lays down disgustingly - bald spots, a pile that has risen and other joys of a painter.
Therefore, I usually put two layers (and sometimes more) with intermediate polishing of the coating with an abrasive sponge. The first primer layer can be diluted with a stronger solvent so that it is absorbed deeper into the wood.

The second layer goes much better.

The stands turned out great. In some places even better than the prototype. In general, the joy of a job well done is present))

How to make information stand do it yourself

You will need a printed layout on a glossy (matte) film with a print resolution of 720 DPI., PVC plastic 3-4 mm. thickness (for stand sizes up to 120x120 cm. PVC plastic 3 mm is enough), smooth roller, clerical knife, metal ruler 1 m. (the wider and heavier, the more convenient).

For starters, there is no experience yet. Cut off the plastic a little over the size of the printed area by 5 cm on all sides. Lay the plastic lengthwise on a smooth, hard surface. Trim the excess white margin of the printable area from the pasted right (for right-handers) and bottom edges, or from all sides. Wipe the plastic with a damp cloth from dust. For the shortest print length, attach the right edge of the printable area to the edge of the plastic. Pull back the backing paper 5 cm from the edge to the left and roll up the edge to the full width. Holding the printed sheet at an angle of 20-30 degrees and pulling the protective layer of paper to the left to the width of the roller, roll the film onto the plastic along the entire length (width). Make sure that there are no distortions and blisters.

Cut the image pasted on the plastic with a ruler and a knife along the outer perimeter of the edging (the edging is not cut off). Can you clean up the edges? sandpaper(zero). The stand is ready. After a couple of stands, this procedure will take you no more than 10 minutes.

How to make pockets for the information stand with your own hands

The devil is not as scary as he is painted. Let's consider how to make it yourself after acquiring a digital layout of the stand. Necessary materials:

Printed layout on a glossy (matte) film with a print resolution of 720 DPI.
PVC plastic 3 -4 mm. (up to 150x120 cm. 3 mm is enough) of the appropriate size.
PET transparent with a thickness of 0.7 to 1 mm. on the number of pockets (PET sheet size 125x205 cm, 1 sheet - 30 A4 pockets.)
Double-sided adhesive tape 6 mm wide. in a roll.
White self-adhesive strips 7 mm wide. (cut out from the remaining unprinted area around the edges).
Any roller is smooth.
Stationery knife.
Metal meter ruler.

Pockets are made of PET or plastic. With a cut in the middle in the form of an oval or a corner on the left or right. For the most part, pockets are made of PET 0.7-1 mm. with cut corners. More complex pockets are manufactured by specialized firms and sold at retail. We will consider the most common way to make pockets in order to reduce the cost of the stand. The dimensions of the pockets are cut out increased by the width of the adhesive tape. The normal size of an unprocessed A4 pocket is 230x320 mm, so that a sheet of f. A4 freely inserted and removed.

Take a PET sheet, lay it out on the table along the width of the sheet, put something solid under the cut line (so as not to spoil the table), mark it horizontally into strips of 32 cm, Put a metal ruler and use a clerical knife to cut along the marked lines into strips 32 cm wide. Some sites say that a clerical knife is not suitable for this purpose. If you are told that you cannot cut a pocket with a clerical knife, do not believe it (more than one thousand pockets have been cut out). Then mark 23 cm strips on top and cut along the marked lines. That. you get a 32x23 cm pocket. This is a landscape format, turn it over and get a book size 23x32 cm .. If the pocket is a book size, step back 5 cm to the left (or right) and 5 cm down, draw a corner and cut it. The pocket is ready. Respectively landscape format the pocket is cut exactly like this.

Bend the protective film around the edges by 2-3 cm and glue the 6 mm double-sided tape. on three sides of the pocket (right large, left with a cut, lower part). When you receive a printed layout on a plotter, you are left with white space on four sides of the layout. You use it for edging pockets. Turn the pocket over, fold back the protective film and glue it with ORACAL film cut out for edging pockets with a width of at least 7 mm. also on three sides. Corners cut obliquely, or do not cut.

Put a PVC sheet with a pasted image on the table, see how the pockets are located in the image, remove the protective film inside the pocket, put it in its place. Substitute a ruler under the bottom row of pockets, align the bottom of the pockets with it. First, put something heavy on the ruler so that it does not budge. Holding the pocket with your fingers in place (the pocket should not move) and bending the edge, remove the protective film from the adhesive tape with the length of the side of the pocket and stick it to the stand, then from the bottom and the short side. And so all the pockets of the bottom row. Rearrange the ruler under the top row and do the same.

The stand is ready.

You can not bother and buy ready-made pockets in your city. They are made of plastic or PET. PET pockets should cost several times cheaper than transparent plastic pockets. Thus, an information stand with pockets can be made independently and even at home.

But, if you do not want to bother with buying a layout and making a stand, you can order a ready-made stand of the same kind. They will make it professionally and quickly and with high quality.

The main task of the information stand is to familiarize the broad masses of people with any information. At the enterprise, these can be orders and instructions, in the store - information for customers, and at school - the schedule of subjects. Depending on how much information will be on the stand, its size is determined. In order for the stand to organically fit into your ad corner, you need to choose the right stand on the site http://vs-smol.ru/stendy-tablichki.htm. If you have the opportunity and desire, you can make it yourself and our material will help you with this.

Necessary materials

Everything you need for manufacturing can be found in the office and at home after the next repair:

plywood;
PVC sheet of the color you need;
plexiglass or polyethylene film up to 1 mm thick;
any adhesive suitable for PVC and plastic;
metal ruler;
simple pencil;
hacksaw for metal.

Base manufacturing process

First of all, it is necessary to determine the size of the booth to be made. So that it does not turn out too small or too large, think about what information you want to place on it and how to make the best use of this space. For a small company, a stand with 4-6 A4 sheets arranged in two rows may well be enough. Between the sheets, for a more aesthetic appearance and better perception of information, it is necessary to leave a gap of 20 - 30 mm. Don't forget about the header of the information stand, which will "call" people. For it, on top of the sheet, it is necessary to leave a space about 100 mm wide.

When the dimensions are determined, you can start marking with a metal ruler. As a base for the stand, we use a sheet of plywood or plastic. When marking, do not forget about the corners. Rectangularity is controlled using a square or by measuring diagonals, the distance between which should have the same size. After making sure that the markup is correct, we cut out the base along the intended contour.

The resulting workpiece must be given an aesthetic appearance. To do this, paint it in any suitable color. The use of plastic in this regard is more profitable - it already has a factory color, and you can save time on this procedure.

Making pockets

The pocket is the main part of the stand, where the information itself will be located. There are several options for making pockets for the stand.

The most inexpensive and common is the use of an ordinary clerical file for documents. Using glue or double-sided tape, it is glued to the base and the insert pocket is ready.

But if you want your information stand to have a more presentable look, then you need to put in a little effort. We will use transparent plexiglass as the material. On the sheet we apply the contour of the pocket, which should be 10 - 15 mm larger than the standard A4 sheet and cut it out with a hacksaw. For ease of insertion and removal of paper, we cut off the corner of the pocket on one side.

From the same plastic we cut out strips of a length equal to the size of the pocket and a width of 5 mm. We glue them along the edges of the pocket, except for the upper side, and then, at the marked places, to the stand. These strips will allow you to lift the plexiglass.

In the same way, pockets can be made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.7-1 mm, only fastening to the stand will be done using double-sided tape.

The heading for the header of the information stand can be made using a stencil or letters cut out of colored plastic. You can also use the services of large format printing. Remember that the title is business card stand and the more imagination you show, the more attractive your stand will be.

That's all - the information stand is ready, it remains to find a suitable place for it.

In this article, we will cover the topic of how to make a stand for the school with your own hands. Now in every school, in every educational institution there are information stands that display various information - schedules, announcements, information about fire safety, diplomas, certificates, and much, much more. But after all, not all institutions can afford to order an information stand from advertising companies. What to do in this case? There is a solution - you can make stands for the school with your own hands. Do not be afraid, you will not need expensive materials and tools, the main thing is a creative approach, a little patience, time and, possibly, the help of others to generate ideas, and together it is always more fun. When designing stands with your own hands, do not try to follow clear canons, make them standard, because in modern world love to look at beautiful pictures and photos, and not to read large texts, do not be afraid to add a little creativity, but the main thing is not to overdo it.

Where to begin

Let's look at how to decorate a stand for a school with your own hands, what materials you can use, what you can do and where to start.

The purpose of creating a stand - what information will it carry, what will it be? A school timetable, an information stand with announcements, it can be a board of honor with certificates of distinguished students, a colorful stand telling about your institution, or these will be stands for elementary school with your own hands.
Size, shape and location. You need to determine where you want to place the stand, what shape you want to make it and decide on the dimensions based on the data collected.
Materials used. Next, we think over what materials you will “collect” the stand from. It is necessary that the materials are easily accessible, not necessarily expensive, and most importantly, do not harm the health of children and the environment. Basically, they take as a basis a 3-5 mm PVC sheet, which can be purchased at any hardware store, if desired, you can use cork sheet, chipboard, polypropylene, etc. For filling, you will need paints, glue, paper, stickers, cut-out or printed pictures, a self-adhesive film with an image, wallpaper will do, in general, whatever your heart desires.
Most creative stage– assembly of all parts into a single stand. It is advisable at the very beginning, when ideas were generated, to make an approximate sketch of the finished stand, so that at this stage it would be easier and faster to assemble.

Do-it-yourself information stands for the school

Now I will tell you how to make a do-it-yourself stand for a school in an original way and how to make a do-it-yourself stand for a school at no great cost. Let's call our booth "The best moments in the life of the school." We take a 3 mm PVC sheet as a basis, it is a very light material that holds its shape well, is convenient when working with acrylic paints, can be cut with an ordinary stationery knife, and is not at all harmful to people and environment. To fill the stand, you will need photos from various events in which students or teachers of the school participated, acrylic paints, ordinary dishwashing sponge for applying paint, color self-adhesive film, photo corners that are used in photo albums. PVC cut out in the form of a large tablet, such as Ipad. We paint the base with acrylic using a sponge, so the paint lays down better and an unusual texture is obtained. We insert photos into the corners, imitating the icons on the tablet, the captions under the photos can be printed on a regular printer to fit the photo. Cut thin strips from self-adhesive film and stick around the photo to visually highlight them. The name of the stand can be made from three-dimensional letters cut out of PVC remnants, made from self-adhesive or colored paper, or simply bought ready-made letters. That's all, you can hang on the wall.

Do-it-yourself themed stands for the school

Based on the steps described above on how to make a do-it-yourself stand for a school, you now understand that it is not at all expensive and anyone can cope with this task without any problems. As mentioned earlier, now the main thing is the visual design, without a lot of text, do not forget to take this into account when creating a stand.

If the design of stands for the school with your own hands is not at all your thing, you do not have time for this and there are no people who can do it, then you can contact us. We will help you in creating an original stand, taking into account your wishes and budget, and we will offer the most optimal exhibition stands.

You can create not only standard information stands and schedule boards, but also various thematic stands. For example, you can create educational stands - about labor protection, environmental protection, warning information stands, about fire safety, about school life, now it is very fashionable to make infographics and there are a lot of other topics that can be displayed on the stand. You can involve school students in the creation of the stand, for sure it will captivate and unite them.

I continue to design the class and ran into a problem - I need pockets for pictures, the size is standard. I made several of these pockets from foam - it was too long and dreary ... then plastic things fell into my hands - a finish for plastic panels ... That's it! and now I made several frames from them)) revealed a lot of positive - you can use any of the sides, you can even insert a brochure, make it easier ... in general, I liked it more than the foam ones. Here I am supplementing the work with a master class.
Finished frame.

Reverse side. I will stick on Double-sided tape, although I think that it is possible on the "titanium" then I will post a photo of the finished stand))

The film for stitching (it costs 5 rubles per piece) is also glued on double-sided tape, thinner ... and secured with ordinary tape.

frames in action!!

the same closer..

and this is the original version - from the ceiling tiles

well, these are ready-made stands)) it seems to have turned out ..

I prepared everything necessary. Here you can clearly see the profile of the finish plastic.

I put double sided tape on the wide side. (I cut it into strips, divided the width of the adhesive tape into 3 parts)

I cut the short sides at an angle of 45 degrees. And on reverse side(here you can see) pasted another piece of adhesive tape.

Well, actually, we assemble the frame)) It is necessary to make sure that the corners are straight. If you need to cut something, scissors will help. It is better if the finish is soft - the hard one starts to break ... The reverse side is shown here.

And now very carefully apply the film for binding. If it lies unevenly, then it is problematic to peel it back. Although here the width allows you to turn around a little in the size of the overlap. On the one hand, I got about 5 mm, and on the other, more than a centimeter. Then it will not be very noticeable.

Well, in general, that’s all)) Before sticking to the surface, it’s better to expand the profile a little from the inside, that is, to make sure that the side that will be glued fits snugly against the surface ... now this side goes a little inward ..On the first photo you can see that the profile itself is expanded .. and here it is a little different, harsh .. Well, nothing, we can handle it. It is better to stick on Titanium, the adhesive tape holds much worse ... already passed))